> And don't solder the braid into the copper pipe. Just wack the sh*t out of > the pipe > onto the braid, you want the 2 copper metals to become homogeneous, on metal.
I'm not sure that's a good idea. I rather doubt you can apply enough pressure to cold-weld the copper with just a hammer. I have a Simpson 1699 Micro-ohmmeter. I've used it for years to check the resistance of my battery connections. Hammer crimps are highly variable, so I no longer trust them. In the days of lead-acid batteries with their leakage, any exposed copper is certain to corrode. Soldering (I usually dip them in a solder pot) was the only way to prevent corrosion. Even with today's non-lead-acid batteries, corrosion is still a problem. Battery terminals are usually a different metal than the terminal you are connecting to it, promoting corrosion. Condensation and atmospheric pollution will still corrode the connections; just slower. Note that all commercial batteries use welded connections. That's about the only way to insure reliability. -- Excellence does not require perfection. -- Henry James But it *does* require attention to detail! -- Lee Hart -- Lee A. Hart https://www.sunrise-ev.com _______________________________________________ Address messages to [email protected] No other addresses in TO and CC fields HELP: http://www.evdl.org/help/
