You also then have the problem that the car's electrical system was not
made with anything but a lead-acid battery in mind.  Putting in anything
else can cause huge problems, such as in a Tesla where you are putting your
multi-kilobuck PCS at risk.   (I've made videos on this if you want details)

On Thu, Jul 31, 2025 at 9:36 AM Lee Hart via EV <[email protected]> wrote:

> I don't know anything about an ILTO variant. But I *do* know that a
> popular marketing gimmick is to sell Li "racing" batteries to replace
> lead-acid vehicle batteries that only advertise an EQUIVALENT capacity. The
> ones I've measured have only 1/10 to 1/4 the actual amphour capacity of the
> lead-acid battery they are supposed to replace. I'm guessing that they're
> assuming it has the same cranking amps, so it's "equivalent". They're also
> assuming it won't lose capacity as it ages, though that's an unproven claim.
> --
> Excellence does not require perfection. -- Henry James
> But it *does* require attention to detail! -- Lee Hart
> --
> Lee A. Hart https://www.sunrise-ev.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
> Sent: Jul 30, 2025 8:27 PM
> To: <[email protected]>
> Cc: Axel Gringmuth <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 153, Issue 23
>
> why not build a lLTO Li-ion Titanate battery? 25,000 cycles, lots of them
> on Aliexpress and eBay Since it does not need heavy starting current, so a
> 50A BMS might be good enough.
> Anybody knows the AH of your lead batteries?
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