Thanks for the pointer. The icon showed it was working off line but nothing I did could persuade it to do other wise. I ended up deleting all of the .gnome and .gconf directories for the user so it appeared that the user had never logged in via X. Logging in again as that user got everything working again. It also fixed a problem I'd been having with calendars under Evolution.
This has been reported before (is in bugzilla), but we have no idea whats going on or how it could happen :-/
Its controlled by a single gconf setting, which is only used to store it anyway, switching modes should always be propagated to components irresepctive of any gconf settings. But I guess it isn't.
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