TOKYO — For Atsushi Nakanishi, jobless since Christmas, home is a cubicle 
barely bigger than a coffin — one of dozens of berths stacked two units high in 
one of central Tokyo’s decrepit “capsule” hotels. 
 
“It’s just a place to crawl into and sleep,” he said, rolling his neck and 
stroking his black suit — one of just two he owns after discarding the rest of 
his wardrobe for lack of space. “You get used to it.”
 
When Capsule Hotel Shinjuku 510 opened nearly two decades ago, Japan was just 
beginning to pull back from its bubble economy, and the hotel’s tiny plastic 
cubicles offered a night’s refuge to salarymen who had missed the last train 
home.
 
Now, Hotel Shinjuku 510’s capsules, no larger than 6 1/2 feet long by 5 feet 
wide, and not tall enough to stand up in, have become an affordable option for 
some people with nowhere else to go as Japan endures its worst recession since 
World War II.
 
Once-booming exporters laid off workers en masse in 2009 as the global economic 
crisis pushed down demand. Many of the newly unemployed, forced from their 
company-sponsored housing or unable to make rent, have become homeless. 
 
The country’s woes have led the government to open emergency shelters over the 
New Year holiday in a nationwide drive to help the homeless. The Democratic 
Party, which swept to power in September, wants to avoid the fate of the 
previous pro-business government, which was caught off-guard when unemployed 
workers pitched tents near public offices last year to call attention to their 
plight. 
 
“In this bitter-cold New Year’s season, the government intends to do all it can 
to help those who face hardship,” Prime Minister Yukio Hatoyama said in a video 
posted Dec. 26 on YouTube. “You are not alone.” 
 
On Friday, he visited a Tokyo shelter housing 700 homeless people, telling 
reporters that “help can’t wait.”
 
Mr. Nakanishi considers himself relatively lucky. After working odd jobs on an 
Isuzu assembly line, at pachinko parlors and as a security guard, Mr. 
Nakanishi, 40, moved into the capsule hotel in Tokyo’s Shinjuku district in 
April to save on rent while he worked night shifts at a delivery company.
 
Mr. Nakanishi, who studied economics at a regional university, dreams of 
becoming a lawyer and pores over legal manuals during the day. But with no job 
since Christmas, he does not know how much longer he can afford a capsule bed.
 
The rent is surprisingly high for such a small space: 59,000 yen a month, or 
about $640, for an upper bunk. But with no upfront deposit or extra utility 
charges, and basic amenities like fresh linens and free use of a communal bath 
and sauna, the cost is far less than renting an apartment in Tokyo, Mr. 
Nakanishi says.
 
Still, it is a bleak world where deep sleep is rare. The capsules do not have 
doors, only screens that pull down. Every bump of the shoulder on the plastic 
walls, every muffled cough, echoes loudly through the rows. 
 
Each capsule is furnished only with a light, a small TV with earphones, coat 
hooks, a thin blanket and a hard pillow of rice husks. 
 
Most possessions, from shirts to shaving cream, must be kept in lockers. There 
is a common room with old couches, a dining area and rows of sinks. Cigarette 
smoke is everywhere, as are security cameras. But the hotel staff does its best 
to put guests at ease: “Welcome home,” employees say at the entrance.
 
“Our main clients used to be salarymen who were out drinking and missed the 
last train,” said Tetsuya Akasako, head manager at the hotel. 
 
But about two years ago, the hotel started to notice that guests were staying 
weeks, then months, he said. This year, it introduced a reduced rent for 
dwellers of a month or longer; now, about 100 of the hotel’s 300 capsules are 
rented out by the month. 
 
After requests from its long-term dwellers, the hotel received special 
government permission to let them register their capsules as their official 
abode; that made it easier to land job interviews.
 
At 2 a.m. on one recent December night, two young women watched the American 
television show “24” on a TV inside the sauna. One said she had traveled to 
Tokyo from her native Gunma, north of the city, to look for work. She intended 
to be a hostess at one of the capital’s cabaret clubs, where women engage in 
conversation with men for a fee. 
 
The woman, 20, said she was hoping to land a job with a club that would put her 
up in an apartment. She declined to give her name because she did not want her 
family to know her whereabouts. 
 
“It’s tough to live like this, but it won’t be for too long,” she said. “At 
least there are more jobs here than in Gunma.” 
 
The government says about 15,800 people live on the streets in Japan, but aid 
groups put the figure much higher, with at least 10,000 in Tokyo alone. Those 
numbers do not count the city’s “hidden” homeless, like those who live in 
capsule hotels. There is also a floating population that sleeps overnight in 
the country’s many 24-hour Internet cafes and saunas. 
 
The jobless rate, at 5.2 percent, is at a record high, and the number of 
households on welfare has risen sharply. The country’s 15.7 percent poverty 
rate is one of the highest among industrialized nations.
 
These statistics have helped shatter an image, held since the country’s rise as 
an industrial power in the 1970s, that Japan is a classless society. 
 
“When the country enjoyed rapid economic growth, standards of living improved 
across the board and class differences were obscured,” said Prof. Hiroshi 
Ishida of the University of Tokyo. “With a stagnating economy, class is more 
visible again.”
 
The government has poured money into bolstering Japan’s social welfare system, 
promising cash payments to households with children and abolishing tuition fees 
at public high schools. 
 
Still, Naoto Iwaya, 46, is on the verge of joining the hopeless. A former tuna 
fisherman, he has been living at another capsule hotel in Tokyo since August. 
He most recently worked on a landfill at the city’s Haneda Airport, but that 
job ended last month. 
 
“I have looked and looked, but there are no jobs. Now my savings are almost 
gone,” Mr. Iwaya said, after checking into an emergency shelter in Tokyo. He 
will be allowed to stay until Monday. 
 
After that, he said, “I don’t know where I can go.”
 

 
Article and slide show at: 

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/02/business/global/02capsule.html?em
 
"Love will swallow you, eat you up completely, until there is no `you,' only 
love." 
 
- Amma  


      

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