Thanks, LB, much appreciated.

Marek
**

--- In FairfieldLife@yahoogroups.com, "L B Shriver" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
> Desolate in Delhi
> 
> My stay in the Valley of the Saints was drawing toward its
inevitable close. I accepted this 
> without concern, even though I could not remember having been as
happy anywhere as I 
> had been here, beside the swiftly flowing waters of the world's most
sacred river. I had 
> been living a life of constant satsang among the saints, sadhus, and
swamis, and working 
> daily with the brahmacharis translating the 108 discourses of
Brahmanandaji. However, I 
> had also enjoyed the freedom of the lone traveler to explore and
investigate, poking into 
> obscure corners of a place that might have been better off if time
had forgotten it—a 
> possibility that disappeared without a trace when the Beatles
arrived in '68.
>       No longer the pristine sanctuary of its legendary past, Rishikesh
nevertheless remains 
> a place where the real and the unreal can be compared like tomatoes
at a supermarket. I 
> had been generously treated to both.
>       The Gangadharishwar Ashram, my home for nearly six weeks, is
located on the west 
> bank of  the river, exactly across from Maharishi's ashram to the
east. Like many of the 
> ashrams in Rishikesh, it has a dual function: first, as a home for
those in full time pursuit 
> of Supreme Knowledge, and secondly as a retreat center for
householders and others who 
> can only come for weekends or summer courses.  
>       One such family from Delhi came to the ashram shortly before I
left—father, mother, 
> daughter, two sons, aunt, and nephew.  Late one afternoon a few days
after they arrived, I 
> watched as a trespassing monkey chased the little girl wildly around
the inner courtyard , 
> to the intense amusement of her father, uncle, brothers, and some of
the workers at the 
> ashram. I suspect he was in love.
>       The next morning I was sitting in the sun beside the river when the
young lady  sat 
> down beside me. Her name was Kanika. In the course of our
conversation, which covered a 
> surprising amount of ground in a fairly short time, she told me that
she really liked 
> studying Sanskrit because it was so easy.  I flinched, but only on
"that quiet level," so she 
> didn't notice. I asked her how she liked mathematics. Just fine, she
told me, math was also 
> easy. I asked her if anything in school was difficult for her. She
paused a moment and said, 
> no, everything was easy. I was starting to feel awed by her radiant
intelligence, almost 
> forgetting that I was talking with a ten-year-old. Then I asked her
what she liked best in 
> school, and she told me that reading stories was her favorite
activity. Her favorite stories? 
> Sleeping Beauty and Cinderella. 
>       We met by the river again the following morning. Kanika sang me a
hymn from the 
> Christian school she attended in Delhi, and I sang  "Long Black
Veil," the only song I could 
> remember from beginning to end. A few days later my little friend
and her family left the 
> ashram. Her father, Mukesh, asked  where I would be staying in Delhi
and when I would 
> arrive, and then they were gone.
>       My own departure came shortly thereafter. The most difficult part
was saying 
> goodbye to Swamini Maneeshananda, who had been my dearest friend and
teacher during 
> my stay at the ashram. At 75, Mata Ji had been at Gangadharishwar
for 27 years. As I sat in 
> the back seat of the taxi , she reached through the window and
gently touched my face—a 
> rare blessing from a Sannyasi, and especially poignant when given by
this one. She had 
> recently told me that she felt she had fulfilled life's purpose, and
now she was only 
> "waiting for the body to drop." I certainly hoped she wasn't in any
kind of hurry, and as the 
> taxi wound its way through the village streets of  Purani Jhadi, I
finally realized how 
> reluctant I was to leave.
>       The Maha Kumbh Mela was still in progress at Haridwar, and the
train station was 
> packed with sadhus and pilgrims. I took the Shatabdi Express to
Delhi, arriving late on 
> Wednesday afternoon. Then I checked in at the Namaskar hotel, just
off the Main Bazaar in 
> the Pahar Ganj, a low rent commercial district west of the main
railway station. 
>       Thursday morning I went back to the railway station to buy my
ticket for the two-day 
> trip to Bangalore. On the way back to the Namaskar I bumped into
Mukesh, who had 
> looked me up as promised. The next day he came back to accompany me
on various 
> errands I had to run in Delhi before leaving. We took an
autorickshaw through Connaught 
> Place and south along Janpath, past the India Gate and deep into the
southeast part of 
> New Delhi, where I had located a photo lab that could process my
film quickly and cheaply. 
> Then we headed west across town to visit a friend I had met in
Rishikesh.
>       The pollution in Delhi is among the worst in the world. I had heard
that a day of 
> breathing in Delhi is equivalent to smoking 20 packs of cigarettes,
 so I found no reason 
> to object when Mukesh offered me a smoke. However, he couldn't
conceal his disgust later 
> when I bought a bede and smoked it.
>       The afternoon wore on. As we headed north again, a peculiar thought
arose: I am 
> leaving this world, a voice inside me said, and the voice was my
own. I have since been 
> told that this is a perfectly reasonable thought for anyone
traveling by autorickshaw in  
> India, but somehow it seemed more profound and insistent. No, I did
not take it as a 
> premonition about leaving the body. I knew full well that this
"vehicle" still had a few good 
> miles in it—the problem was that there was nowhere left to go. 
>       The dirt and the noise seemed more oppressive than ever, and the
endless clouds of 
> diesel fumes and carbon monoxide didn't help. But it was more than
that.  In the world to 
> which I was presumably returning, I could think of nothing that had
the faintest bit of 
> charm left in it. Would I continue to write? Why bother, when I
really had nothing to say? 
> Would I seek fulfillment in a relationship? What would be the point?
None of my toys, none 
> of my enthusiasms, none of my old haunts appealed to me in the least.
>       We continued jolting and sputtering northward on Janpath, past
Sonia Ghandi's 
> palace with its armed guards at the gate, rolling into Connaught
place shortly after five—
> the peak of the rush hour, a literal and figurative descent into the
maelstrom, where the 
> noise and the intensity of the traffic are simply unimaginable if
you haven't experienced 
> them. It's probably as close to hell as you can get without a one
way ticket.
>       As we got closer to the Pahar Ganj, the enormity of my loss
continued to reveal itself. 
> There was no bliss of the effulgent Self, no immanent merging with
the Supreme, only the 
> certain knowledge that the life I had lived was gone. The thought
came again: I am leaving 
> this world. 
>       Mukesh dropped me off at the entrance to the Main Bazaar, and a few
minutes later I 
> was back at the hotel. As I climbed the steps to my room, I realized
that I had just enough 
> time to meditate, pack, and eat before catching the train to Bangalore. 
>       I settled into a bleak and empty meditation. After about ten or
fifteen minutes there 
> was a knock on the door.  Someone on the other side informed me that
I had a phone call 
> downstairs at the desk. I made my way down the narrow marble steps,
vaguely wondering 
> what fresh insults the universe was concocting to further crush my
spirit.
>       The manager handed me the phone.
>       "Hello?"
>       The voice in my ear was sweet and familiar. Suddenly the cleansing
waters of the 
> Ganga were flowing all around me, and the brilliant morning sun of
Rishikesh was 
> sparkling in every wave and ripple.
>       "This is Kanika. I've been missing you…"
>






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