Maris explanation applies quite well to my case. Indeed, it is amazingly simple to get good results tweaking the opacity slide in the "filter layer" (in mode color, as Robert Wright pointed) -- very easy corrections with aditional levels and saturation (sometimes) layers gave good results with all the collection (about 40 recoverable slides). Happily, in ONE of them I had a zone that should be white (better, gray) -- perhaeps a good indication to take also a photo from a reference card when shooting under difficult ilumination conditions (or the wrong film... ), a thing that I didn't ...
Thanks for all the inputs, I learned interesting things. Mario Teixeira [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Maris V. Lidaka, Sr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: | If using Photoshop you could click with the White eyedropper, the Gray (pick your own gray numbers for each image) and the Black and you should have basic adjustments. But this will not work 100% of the time because sometimes Curves will be necessary - and very intricate Curves - so the filter set may well be more useful. Different objects in the image may have differing reactions to the fluorescent lighting - some may be fairly OK and others way off. | | Maris | | ----- Original Message ----- | From: "Arthur Entlich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> | | Thanks for the info on your approach to correcting fluorescent lighting. | | If you were not interested in having a "filter set" wouldn't just | clicking with the clear eyedropper in levels at the same (near white) | location do a basic adjustment? | | Art | | Mário Teixeira wrote: | | > Thanks Art and all the others that helped. In fact, trying to correct | with | > levels in PS was beeing truely difficult -- I don't remember very | well the | > true color, reproductions in books that I have doesn't seem very | "true" and >>>>>>>>> _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com