This message is from: "Karen McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >We are going to put up an outdoor arena and I would like it to accomodate driving as well as riding. If anyone has information &/or experience on this subject (size, width, length, footing, etc.) and would like to share I sure would appreciate it. Thank You! First of all, do you have access to a civil engineer, or someone who knows how to shoot a level w/ a transit? If not, get to know one! If you are new to your area, try to ask around and see what has worked for "the locals". Lots of people have had to re-do an arena because they have overlooked some really pertinent things like siting the arena in a low spot, not prepping the sub-surface or putting in footing that turns to concrete or mush.More than likely they'll want to tell you their life histories as they relate to riding arenas, so get ready... When you have an idea of your site, call the civil engineer (who had best be from your area), and tell him the size you want and where. He,(or she),can then tell you,from taking a few shots, where the most advantageous layout(if there is one) would be in regards to slope and natural drainage. Yes, the "D" word, very *key* here, as those of you know from having to work in arena that half the year is muskeg. If you need them, and are feeling expansive and conscientious,put french drains in where reccomended.On most sites cut out of side hills, this is a necessity.Or you can make an open "eyebrow" ditch arcing from one end of the arena to the other,on the uphill slope.(For further slope drainage Q.'s, I should refer you to Catherine L.,who can give you quite the dissertation.Catherine?) When it comes to grading the arena, choose A or B: A) We are siting an arena on land more kindly known as hells half acre: every rock/boulder/stone known to man exists here, and no matter how many truckloads you haul away,rocks in all forms "magiclly" re-appear every spring. B) We are siting an arena on land that was once an ancient riverbed, and the largest rock is the size of a chunk of manure, and they appear infrequently. If you answered "yes" to scenario B) sit down and chill and say a prayer for those poor souls answering yes to A),the arena from hell scenario. All those rocks need to be capped and "crowned" with the proper stuff that your C.E. and/or grading person reccomend. Some say clay with a topping of roadbase,(sometimes ref. to as 3/4-, as in the angular, not round rock,that has been crushed to a state of 3/4" or less and includes the "fines"- the rock dust that permits the base to compact and harden.)Some may say roadbase alone. I have even heard of asphalt! To inhibit puddling, the site needs to be crowned,(if on the flat),or sloped a few degrees from the uphill side,(if on a hill). What type of surface? If you plan mostly to drive, a firm, but still yielding surface. If you are doing mostly flat work, make it a little deeper.Personally, I have never enjoyed overly deep footing, especially when the subsurface underneath is slippery clay dirt.Here in Nevada I live at the base of the Eastern Sierras, and have access to fairly inexpensive,( $3.00/ton), decomposed granite or "DG",that sloughs off the granitic mountains. It's like a very coarse sand and does not compress easily.We put about 4" over an existing sandy loam area,(see B) above, mainly to make the allready sandy footing more uniform, and to take the 'slip' out of the loamy areas. I work it w/ a spike harrow once a week and it fluffs right up. Other surfaces? I'm sure theres a huge opinion out there on whats best and I've only described what works for me. Beware of some sands. Some are just too fine and 'wash out" and blow away, another reason I like the coarser and heavier DG here in the land of the Zephyr. Some people like to add shavings, and again personal preference, but when I have ridden in outdoor arenas w/ shavings comprising the bulk of the footing, they tend to get really sloppy and hold the moisture too long , and are really nasty on a dirt subsurface. Shredded wood chips, called "hog fuel" in the northwest, can be alot better, but beware of where they come from, especially if they are free from the local tree service or power co. Ask what types of trees they are from - many times a melage of non-and toxic tree waste is utilised; if its free, inspect each load before they dump it, some "chips" may turn out to be 6"+, too large, and possibly sharp. Here are some sizes in feet, for a full size driven dressage arena: Small- 262'8"(L) x 131'4"(W) Large- 328'4"(L) x 131'4"(W) Small size for singles/pairs, large for fours,tandems,etc. Hope this helps, and Good Luck in tour arena adventure. Karen McCarthy, Carson City, NV Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
