Okay, here are your possibilities: 1. Go back and conform your original negative to match the workprint, or hire a negative matcher to do it. Colorlab can do this, and they are expensive BUT you can get it A/B rolled so the edits look cleaner.
2. Since it's only for safety use, get a B&W dirty dupe on 7366. I don't know if Colorlab can do this but any lab that does B&W reversal should be able to. Color rendition is a bit odd, but it might be okay as a backup and as a record to allow you to go back and conform the original later on and reconstruct things. 3. Pay the lab for a one-light internegative to be made. Don't strike a print from the interneg until you actually need it. There are labs out there much cheaper than Colorlab for this. Another poster suggested using a printer and duplicating on E100 E-6 reversal film. My experience duplicating onto camera stocks is that the contrast and saturation build up enormously (in a way that is really cool if that's what you want). It's possible a lab may be able to preflash the stock in order to keep this under control but it will take some tinkering to get it to work right. Fred at A-1 was hoarding VNF print stock for a while.... I'd be curious what happened to that. Where is he these days anyway? --scott _______________________________________________ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
