There have been plenty of stories in the media to mark the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Mt.Everest. And quite a few have noted that the only (British) survivor is Jan Morris, the celebrated travel writer and journalist, who was the Times of London's 'embedded' reporter. Most other reporters were waiting at the foot at Namche Bazaar, but Morris was actually part of the team on the mountain, and had the responsibility of getting the news to the outside world which was managed with great flair, a code and use of an Indian army radio transmitter at Namche.
And most of the reports also note that this Everest survivor is now a woman, but wasn't when she was on Mt.Everest or, more accurately perhaps, wasn't outwardly a woman then. Morris was born a man, James Morris, and lived a man's life for many years, getting married and having children and becoming very succesful in his career - yet all along very firmly convinced that he was really a woman, and that he had to do his best, someday, to make that inward feeling become an outward reality. Morris managed this finally, and has written about this in a wonderful book called Conundrum. It is really worth reading, not just for how well Morris writers and the very matter of fact way she sets out her story, talking quite clearly about the questions most people want to ask (about sex) - and all this was written and published back in 1974, when it really was a sensational, path-breaking story. The story of her transition, and also her career as one of the best of travel writers, has rather overshadowed the Everest episode, so it is good to have the 60th anniversary bring a spot light on it again. Mint Lounge did an excellent story on her which can be read here: http://www.livemint.com/Leisure/xnYOACRXgFp8SHLlOlSXGJ/Snow-conditions-bad.html