I found it. 60/40 solder's melting point is about 188 degrees C so I had my iron way too hot; up around 320 degrees C. I'll try turning it down quite a bit.
Thanks everyone! On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 5:34 PM, Rob Butts <[1]r.but...@gmail.com> wrote: Yes I do have an adjustable iron. The solder does contain lead so what kind of temperature are we talking? It doesn't give a percentage of lead or melting temp on the label. On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 5:10 PM, Phil Taylor <[2]p...@plastitar.com> wrote: On 2/4/2011 1:42 PM, Rob Butts wrote: high? How can I get it to that shiny silver solder sticking to it condition? The oxidation on your tip can be polished off with fine sandpaper (400 and higher). It was expected with older irons that the tip would be filed back as it corrodes. This is generally a bad idea today, because your tip metal contaminates the solder alloy, leaving solder composition and properties you can't be sure are stable. A new tip is a joy to use and should hold up well to the fluxes and alloys used today. In a jam, polish the tip you have under running water (so you're not breathing lead dust) and be sure to flux and tin this tip as soon as you get it hot the first time. This routine also works when you get the tip otherwise contaminated (burned plastic, etc.). The common assumption that you need higher temps with lead-free solder may be wrong. These solders don't flow as well, but they also contaminate easily. Hotter temperatures make this second factor a serious concern. If you're doing lead free, you have to have excellent flux or your iron will always be a mess, and you joints unpredictable. Phil Taylor _______________________________________________ geda-user mailing list [3]geda-user@moria.seul.org [4]http://www.seul.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/geda-user References 1. mailto:r.but...@gmail.com 2. mailto:p...@plastitar.com 3. mailto:geda-user@moria.seul.org 4. http://www.seul.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/geda-user
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