Well, the problem in this case turned out to be an Enet cable(!)
I finally noticed that one of the NICs had autonegotiated
itself back down to 100MB/S when nobody was looking and it
refused to go faster when instructed to do so via ethtool.
I haven't yet analyzed it thoroughly but I swapped a different
cable into the rig and we're now getting ~35MB/S - yay!

Along the way I found this collection of network performance and
tuning links that seems good enough to be deserve a mention here:

  http://www.csm.ornl.gov/~dunigan/netperf/netlinks.html
 
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