By: Dinyar Patel  [Dinyar Patel is an associate professor of history at the
SP Jain Institute of Management and Research in Mumbai. His award-winning
biography of
*Dadabhai Naoroji, Naoroji: Pioneer of Indian Nationalism,* was published
by Harvard University Press in May 2020.]
Published in: *Scroll*
Date: May 6, 2026
Source:
https://scroll.in/article/1092477/podcast-shrimp-in-banana-cake-saravle-macroli-and-bombay-duck-everywhere-mumbais-world-of-food
*Note:* Pleas access the source to read the listen to the podcast.
"Pronoti Datta [*In the Beginning There Was Bombay Duck* (Speaking Tiger,
2026)] uses food and restaurants as windows into Maximum City’s complex
social and political landscape
Above all, Mumbai’s cuisine is adaptable. In Datta’s account, the figure of
the Goan baker and chef constantly hovers in the background. Goans, long
exposed to European ingredients and methods of cooking, were instrumental
in shaping so much of the food we eat today. They staffed some of the
city’s first prominent restaurants and labored in the kitchens of rich
merchants and industrialists. Along the way, they took certain uninspired
and insipid Western dishes and added a heady dose of masala. Perhaps,
thanks to them, even today’s Chicken Cecilia is more palatable than its
original form.

Through agents like the Goan chef, food in Mumbai became dazzlingly
international."

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