ON THE HOW'S, WHY'S AND WHAT'S OF ALCOHOL IN GOAN SOCIETY
Why is alcohol consumption at bars frowned upon even though
it is permitted at occasions and parties? Why do only men
visit Goan bars? How did the labelling of deviants and
addicts -- as bebde -- come about?
A new book on the role of alcohol in Goan society seeks to
answer this and explain a number of other question related to
the role of alcohol in Goan society.
In Goa, alcohol plays a significant role as a social
lubricant and is considered to be essential for hospitality,
says the book called *One For The Road: Role of Alcohol in
Goan Society*, authored by associate professor of sociology
at Fr Agnel's College (Pilar) Biula V Cruz e Pereira.
Rituals and beliefs are associated with
distillation. Alcohol, interestingly enough, is
used in medicine, antiseptic, in deliveries and
childcare, as an appetizer, an antiflatulent, for
deworming, to treat colds and fevers, an as an
analgesic.
Alcohol goes into food as an ingredient. Feni and vingegar
goes into meat preparations, as a preservative, in Goan
sausages, fish preparations. Wine is used in cakes, while
sur (toddy) goes into leavening.
Alcohol goes into many Goan customs and traditions. This
reflects in the spirit of the Devchar (benevolentn or other
spirit). Feni offerings are made by the Seth and Gosai
communities, Pereira says.
In Goa, feni gets used to ward off evil eye, and to mark the
xim (a boundary at the time of the marriage). Alcohol or
sur offerings also play other roles in religion, both
Catholic and Hindu. Feni is used at the crematorium at
times, or for exorcism.
Beyond religion, says Pereira, alcohol has a social
function too. It gets used at rites of passage
(raising the toast, engagement, traditions, saguade
and vojem, bhikream-jevonn, ros and hollod, jevonn,
barso, baptism, funerals among others).
>From feasts to the Sao Joao monsoon celebration, to zatras,
saibinn celebrations and the ladin (litany), carnival and
holi, bonderam and sangodd, and other bigger feasts, alcohol
has played a role in Goa.
Goan Catholics, says the book, have assimiliated the use of
alcohol in their daily life and celebrations. Goan Hindus,
whose attitudes are similar to those in the rest of the
country, do not condemn alcohol consumption by others. A
growing number of Hindus, particularly the younger
generation, however consume alcohol in individual settings or
as part of socialisation.
Alcohol is the oldest and "most abused intoxicant" known to
man, says the book, which looks at the origins of alcoholic
beverages, and attitudes towards it. Alcohol consumption
patterns, and religious attitudes towards alcohol use, are
also detailed.
Pereira's study focussed on Verna and Benaulim in the Old
Conquest areas of coastal Goa, and Shiroda and Bali from the
New Conquest hinterland.
Contrary to expectations that she would smoothly conduct work
on her research problem, Pereira says she "had to face
difficult questions, condemning stares and unpleasant
gestures from menfolk especially... where social attitudes
differ with regards to alcohol consumption."
She looks at the history of alcohol in Goa -- pre-Portuguese,
Portuguese and post-1961. It is clear that alcohol existed
in Goa before the Portuguese arrived here, though the alcohol
industry "flourished in Goa during the Portuguese rule".
Photos show clay and glass containers from those times, which
were used to store wine, as were glass jars and wooden
containers (for toddy).
Various implements used, and the process of collecting 'sur'
(the input for coconut feni) is explained. Cashew feni, the
traditional brew made from the fruit brought in by the
Portuguese, has a completely different process.
Feni production gets attention in a chapter on the
'social organisation of feni production'. Right
from collection to distillation, each stage is
described for both coconut (palm) feni and cashew
feni. Toddy tappers have been sharply declining in
Goa, Pereira notes. The fall over the recent years
itself has been rather drastic.
Cashew distillation is looked after by the kazkar. Today,
both the render (coconut toddy tappers) and the kazkar face a
number of difficulties, notes the book.
'Situational drinking' is another area needing understanding,
while the social norms of, and attitudes to, alcohol
consumption are also explained.
"Public opinion plays an important role in
labelling a person an alcoholic... In Goan
society, a bebdo is a person addicted to alcohol of
any kind, who drinks excessively till he loses
motor control and cannot retain a regular job,"
Pereira notes. She discusses accepted norms on
drinking to socialise, the acceptable age for
drinking, and the timing of drinking. Modes for
serving alcohol, group formation, and who serves
the drinks is also focussed on.
*One For The Road* also elaborates and explain the links
between alcohol and religion. In recent times, the role of
Goa Church towards alcohol has also changed. So have grousp
like the Padmanabh Mutt, which have played an important role
in reshaping attitudes.
In concluding, Pereira looks at the changing trends of
drinking in Goan society, issues facing the alcohol
industry in Goa, and also the effects of alcoholism on
society.
This 312-page book with a number of photographs is priced at
Rs 350 in Goa, and at Euro 14 (inclusive of airmail and
packaging) internationally. It is available at Golden Heart
Emporium at Rua Abade Faria in Margao (Ph 93 70 27 34 79)
and other outlets.
--
NOTE: Meet Goa,1556 at the book fair currently on at Kala
Academy (darya sangam), Panjim, Goa at Stall No 67. The
author can be contacted at bevigilant...@gmail.com or
+91 99 21 44 81 10.
See cover
https://www.flickr.com/photos/fn-goa/16142382568/
