A discussion on Orchata started off on the Goa-Research-Net (Yahoogroups) recently, after Dr Leopoldo da Rocha commented: "This reminds me of another soft drink that was served only in solemn occasions, such as weddings etc., normally in landed gentry houses. Its name is orchata. After decolonization, it ceased to exist in Goa, at least during my time. Here in Portugal I asked many people. Nobody knew a drink by the name of orchata. Curiously, many years ago while on holidays in Benidorm (Spain), I saw the drink called 'horchata'. It tasted exactly as the one of my childhood. The monumental Dictionary of the Portuguese Language by the Bazilian author Houaiss, of Lebanese stock, does register the term 'orchata'. It is a soft drink made of ground almonds. Etymologically it is a Spanish word introduced in 1734. I presume only in Goa and Spain." Below is the story of the recent revival of the drink in Goa itself....
By Eunice Lima Fernandes De Sa For me, it was not the great nutritional value of almonds (omega 3 fatty acids, proteins, fibres, Vit E) or its health benefits, like being antioxidant, lowering blood sugars, cholesterol, pressure or helping in skin tone, that attracted me to this almond drink called Orchata. It has always been the taste. I have loved it as my summer cooler, winter warmer, as a teenager, nursing mother, and now as a senior. Being in the field of education, I always felt the need to encourage in my students the love for home-made foods and beverages. Having discouraged in them the consumption of fizzy and aerated drinks, I had no other choice but to experiment with yummy and healthy beverage solutions...what a better way than to introduce them to that which we enjoyed as kids? At home, I was always ensured that milk went smoothly down the throat when accompanied by Orchata. It was easily available in some of the outlets of the yesteryears -- Capuccina and Loja Agni in Panjim. A production of the Family of Coelhos, along with Xarope de Brindao, it used to be very popular. Unfortunately, it went out of market in the late 1990s. Longing for it, I had no option but venture to make it. My first guinea-pig was my mother, and she couldn't tell what it was. But later it passed a sibling test and I began gifting it to family and friends. Having no recipes as such to lean on, and depending only on my taste buds, after 13 odd years of working on it, I can say that I have achieved the perfect taste which *my* preparation of Orchata has to have. It's been years, and we all love Orchata in the family. This year, my daughter-in-law Efigenia decided to share it with a wider circle. During the 1960s, our food and drink had a strong influence of the Portuguese cuisine. In fact, I lived in Fontainhas and had Portuguese families as neighbours at the side and front of my house. I remember growing up eating manteiga Dinamarquesa -- butter from Denmark, bacalhao and chourico de reino from Portugal, cabidel do Patto, feizoada, sarapatel, great fish and prawns from Chorao (my village). Also picking up my own beans from the field. Freshly picked, boiled and eaten... all ingredients for great memories. Bebinca, bolo sans rival, fios de ovos, dedos de dama, bolo de mil folhas are sweet memories too. Some still exist and are popular even today. We belong to a generation that has seen and eaten tasty. We had enough but never too much, so we used the resources at hand, be it fruit, vegetables, the sun, etc. Food and preservation have evolved around our seasonal resources. Living on the scenic banks of the River Mandovi, in Ribandar, just across Chorao and 10 minutes from Panjim, I think of the good simple times. When I retired and heard parents complaining about children having fizzy drinks and not wanting to drink milk, I thought it time to introduce them to Orchata, xarope de brindao, aam panna, lime juice, etc., all made from seasonal fruits and with great health benefits. It worked! The fall-out benefit was that I was able to salvage the neglected kokum (also called the bin'na), the green mangies from a fallen branch etc. Also the pulp inspired me to make jams and pickles, since they have great antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. As we reached out to more people with our summer coolers, we realise that they were waiting for the taste of Orchata. I'm happy to provide these coolers and happier with the response and creativity of my well-wishers. We've had a variety of cocktails and mocktails being created with all three, and beautiful pictures posted. Now you are getting all the coolers, jam, pickles and chocolates from my personal kitchen. But we are thinking of expanding and looking for a place, equipment, material, etc. -- Eunice Lima Fernandes De Sa can be contacted via WhatsApp +91 99228 53736. Her Orchata and other preparations have been widely appreciated on the 'Goa Menus' Facebook group and other networks in Goa. Goanet Reader is edited and produced by Frederick Noronha.