Forts: Goa’s sentinels lie neglected The once-upon-a-time splendid forts of the state are in ruins with only the elements for solace. Why are these valuable monuments of history and potential tourism boosters so blatantly neglected by the authorities? MAYURESH PAWAR reports.
‘THIS is a monument of national importance’ reads the boards prominently displayed outside most of Goa’s heritage structures. But, once past the board, it’s a ‘monument of neglect’ that greets you. Only 24 forts still remain in this tiny tourist destination, of which, nine forts are lying in ruins, due to sheer negligence by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and the state-run Archives and Archaeology Dept.,” according to Prof. Prajal Sakhardande, an executive member of the Goa Heritage Action Group (GHAG). He claims, “All these forts are lying in ruins, despite the need for protection and preservation for the future generations. In fact, many forts are on the verge of collapse.” When contacted, Dr Shankar Kamat Mhamai, director, Archives and Archaeology Department admits, “These 9 forts are under custody of his department. But, Fort Aguada is under custody of both central and state agencies. Some forts are lying completely in ruins. We need urgent restoration work for all these forts.” Critical of both the central and state agencies for their neglect of heritage monuments, heritage activist, Ms Heta Pundit says, “The government has to play a pro-active role in the restoration of all Goa’s forts, for the subsequent generations.” She informs us, “The forts in Rajasthan has been restored by their government and now Rajasthan has been been moving, from strength to strength, as a tourist destination.” She affirms, “To preserve structures and precincts which are historical landmarks and arearchitecturally/aesthetically significant, connote a special cultural significance of that city or locality and have a unique local flavour about them.” According to her, “the involvement of people staying in a heritage precinct locality will ensure a sustained conservation.” She stresses, “It’s important to create an appropriate context for the improvement of the precinct in the form of improved lighting in the public areas, opening it only for pedestrians on weekends and also specific physical improvement like restoration of the heritage monuments.” The endeavour seems to be an interesting step towards mobilising the residents to become more aware and alert of their heritage surroundings and make them feel a sense of belonging, so that they cheerfully volunteer in the conservation process, she says and continues, “Otherwise, generally, when it comes to heritage conservation at a personal level, individuals shy away or are generally hostile.” She believes, “by involving residents, the affinity towards conservation is heightened and the legislation bears more credibility. Though, one must admit that, in the case of the fort precincts, the local groups comprise businessmen, executives or officials of large libraries and art galleries, more than owners of the individual buildings.” The majority of these forts, which were built in the Portuguese and pre-Portuguese era, remain in varying degrees of decay. Some are partially ruined, while others lie in neglect. According to Ms Pundit, “this history etched in stone presents an imposing aspect of the military strength of the region, but now, many of them have collapsed.” The Aguada fort — built on a cliff, the upper part of which contains a lighthouse and that the lower part has a prison — was constructed during the period of 1604-1612. The fort encloses the whole peninsula at the southwest extremity of the province of Bardez. During the Portuguese period, ships would stop at the Fort Aguada to replenish their supply of water (agua), hence the name Aguada. These ships had to pay one per cent, towards the duty charges coming to this fort. The fort contained a cistern capable of holding over two million gallons of water, two powder-rooms, two magazines, two prisons, four barracks and a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Good Voyage. Earlier in 1808 the Aguada fort was occupied by the British. In the peninsula at the extreme north-western point of Salcete is the small fort — Mormugao fort overlooking the Mormugao harbour, which was built in 1624 and had 53 guns and a garrison with four officers. To its south there is a wall going down into a ravine. There was a small door about halfway down the ravine, which bears the legend, Fortaleza de Santa Catarina. The small fort over the harbour and the wall in the ravine were part of a larger fortress complex which measured two leagues (six miles) in circumference. Not far from the Mormugao fort is what once was Goa’s only Protestant church. It dates back to the British period, when England occupied Goa to guard against the possibility of an invasion by Napoleon, by using Goa as a gateway to get into India. (England and Portugal have always enjoyed cordial relations with each other, so the British occupation was accomplished amicably.) At the Reis Magos church - built in 1550 on the ruins of a pagoda - Portuguese viceroys, when they first arrived, would stop for a ceremony before proceeding up the river to the Cidade de Goa to do what they came to Goa for — which was, to get rich. The Tivim fort was once a huge fortification complex involving three forts. The original called Forte Novo de Tivim which was built in 1635 by the Conde de Linhares. In 1681 it was joined by Forte de Assumcao de Tivim and Forte de Meio de Tivim. They were all connected to each other and with Colvale by a strong wall and a deep ditch. The latter two forts were captured by Shivaji’s son Sambhaji in 1683, but he held on to them it only for a short time. They were abandoned by 1834. All that, remains of them now are a dilapidated gateway and a wall that seems to go nowhere and is covered with wild vegetation The Corjuem (Khorjue) fort, was built by the Bhonsles and is located on the island of Corjuem and is owned by a prominent Goan publishing family. There are no interior buildings, but it has a well in the centre. According to an inscription over the gate, it was seized from the Bhonsles in 1705 by the Portuguese Caetano de Mello e Castro. In the beginning of the 19th century it served as a place for military maneuvers but was abandoned in 1834. The Cabo de Rama fort, was built by a Sunda prince, captured by the Portuguese, then regained by the Sundas and finally recaptured, in 1763, by the Portuguese. Its walls are in fairly good shape, but all the interior buildings, except for a charming little church, are in ruins. At one time, there were two natural springs through which issues water of unequal temperature — the cold water is used for drinking purposes and the hot water, which is said to be sulfurous — for bathing by people suffering from cutaneous (skin) diseases, especially in summer. There is no wall on the seaward side because there is a steep cliff there, making the construction of a wall unnecessary though it’s difficult to reach there. But it is evident — from the graffiti on the wall of the gate house — that some picnickers make their way up. The Chapora fort on Vagator beach, at the western extremity of Bardez, was built in 1717 and sits on a hill. It was captured in 1739 by the Bhonsles, but later restored, by atreaty, to the Portuguese. Though its walls are in an ‘okay’ condition, there are no buildings standing within the walls. At one time, it had a chapel with a mandovim (customs house) and some springs. It was defended by nine guns and a small garrison. The Bicholim fort, situated in the heart of the province, was originally owned by the Bhonsles, but was captured in 1705 by the Conde de Mello e Castro. Shortly after that, it was captured by Sawantwadi state, but recaptured, in 1746, by the Marquees de Alorna. Subsequently it was restored to Sawantwadi state but retaken in 1781 by Dom Frederico Guilherme de Souza. The Sanquelim fort once existed on the left bank of the Sanquelim river. It was conquered by the Marquees de Aldona in 1746 and has long since been abandoned. It was used as a strong defensive barrier of the Bhonsles of Sawantwadi in Maharastra. Prof. Sakhardande emphasises, “Forts have played a pertinent part in shaping the history of Goa, as they constitute an important part of our heritage andthey have to be conserved for posterity.” He opines, “the forts can be promoted as the tourists destination and that, the concept of heritage tourism can be developed around it. For instance,” he states, “there was a talk of entrusting Reis Magos fort to Lady Hamlyn Trust but nothing came of it. We are pressuring the Goa government to amend the heritage regulations on the monuments of ruined forts.” He concludes, “The situation is quite pathetic in Goa, with regards to protection of the heritage structures, unlike in other parts of our country.” Let’s wake up, to the grandeur of our history and our cultural wealth which is, slowly but steadily, being eroded by our neglect and devil-may-care attitude. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-W-E-B---S-I-T-E-=-=-= To Subscribe/Unsubscribe from GoaNet | http://www.goacom.com/goanet =================================================================== For (un)subscribing or for help, Contact: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Dont want so many e=mails? Join GoaNet-Digest instead ! =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Help support non-commercial projects in Goa by advertizing!! * * * * Your ad here !!
