Cornel's interesting article on CROSSING THE INDIAN OCEAN DURING WORLD WAR II
has set my memory box a-ticking!
Those of my vintage will remember that most Civil servants in East Africa were
entitled to Second Class passages for themselves and their families. Some chose
to travel by deck and claim back the cash difference(which could amount to a
tidy sum if the individual had a fairly large family); no doubt such savings
came in very handy on their long vacation leave(I use the word long advisedly
because invariably, some Goans managed to "fall sick" on the expiry of their
4-5 months leave ,and producing a medical certificate from a doctor in Goa or
Bombay, was a piece of cake. Such certificates enabled the individual to obtain
a further months(or longer) extension of his leave on full pay!
Although deck travel was quite cumbersome, the camaraderie that prevailed
was something unique. Passengers would create their own entertainment - be it
playing cards, or singing some old favourites to the accompaniment of a rebec.
And the aroma of the spicy Mohammedan -style dishes that filled the air was
enough to whet anyone's appetite. I felt sorry though for the likes of my
wife(Elsie) who were plagued with sea sickness. Quite selfishly I must admit I
am a very good sailor and suffer none of these problems.
I was privileged to travel on the S.S. ARONDA, KAMPALA and AMRA, and among
other things, I can still recall the occasions when we men would turn out
smartly in our dinner jackets(ladies looking elegant in their long flowing
evening gowns). On occasions we were invited to sit at the Captain's table. The
Cabin boys and waiters were almost always Goan, so one often got preferential
treatment. I can well remember our cabin boy bringing us ice cold apples from
the freezer, for our children.
After dinner, we would make our way to the lounge(Smoke Room?) where dancing
to a Goan band continued until the early hours.
Being fond of singing, I can also remember accompanying the Asst. Purser on
many old favourites. Tunes like the romantic "By the light of the silvery
moon", and many others come immediately to mind. The sea voyage was a holiday
in itself.
There is one particular memory that I'd like to, if I may, share with others..
It so happened that on one particular voyage, our ship docked for a while at
Porbander which, as some of you may remember, was a dry port.at the time. We
were told that the bar would be sealed, and local Police would board the ship
to carry out a random check.
Knowing the Goans' love of the water of life, the Captain(whose name escapes
me), invited my wife and myself to his cabin, and also asked the Purser(a Mr.
Alvares I think) to join us. I must admit to feeling a trifle guilty since here
were we, three men(my wife was on soft drinks), safely cocooned in the
Captain's cabin sipping gin and tonic while many of the other passengers were
probably dry - or were they??
The only unfortunate incident I can remember, on this otherwise wonderful
holiday, was the awkward attitude of the Government Agents in Bombay(Mackinnon
Mackenzie). The Goan official in charge delighted in booking us by deck even
though we were entitled to second class passages, and it is only after a
struggle and virtually getting officials in Kenya to put pressure on the Agents
that I succeeded in obtaining a passage commensurate with my entitlement.
Fortunately, on my last such voyage the individual concerned couldn't play any
of his old tricks as I was, by then, entitled to First Class privileges. It
is sad to have to mention this, but I am sure there must be others who had
similar problems.
I could go on rambling about those days, but as my memory is fast
deteriorating, I shall leave it to others to share their own experiences - good
or bad, with us.
Looking back, I can truly say, those were the days my friend!".
Mervyn(Maciel)
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