Vivek Menezes

Last month, the Migration Observatory of Oxford University released a new
study that underlines the continuing uniqueness of the Goan diaspora. The
study found only one significant group of permanent residents in the UK, of
European Union (EU) citizens who were not actually born in the EU—only one
consisting of over 10,000 individuals. That group actually totaled over
20,000 UK residents, and they were all India-born Goans who carried
Portuguese passports.

It's a startling number. According to the Election Commission of India,
11,500 Goans surrendered Indian passports in favour of Portuguese
citizenship between 2008 and 2013. Assuming the same rate held over recent
years, almost every Goan who queued up to "become Portuguese" at the
consulate in Altinho over the past decade then promptly purchased a ticket
to the UK, seeking better opportunities than available in his or her new
"mother country".

Predictably, some Portuguese fume at this adroit opportunism. Edgar Valles,
the lawyer who presides over the Casa de Goa in Lisbon is usually pragmatic
about Portugal-India ties, but bitterly complained to a Macau newspaper "it
disgusts me" more requirements have not been placed on citizenship—like
knowledge of Portuguese language and history.

He found it "ridiculous" to meet someone at the Panaji consulate who
acquired
Portuguese nationality, yet refused to accept her identity had changed.
Valles should recall this kind of thing goes both ways.

Portuguese who forcibly entered Goa in the colonial era wasted no time
chasing fortunes wherever they found them. Garcia da Orta—now heralded a
great patriotic hero—sagaciously fled anti-Jewish bigotry in
the Estado da India (he was nominally a convert) to serve the Muslim Nizam
of Ahmednagar, where his countryman Sancho Pires (also a secret Jew) was
the captain of the cavalry. Fernao Rodrigues
Caldeira—who advised the Sultan of Golconda—was one of hundreds of other
Portuguese mercenaries in the armies of India.

Of course, the main reason Goans are acquiring Portuguese passports but
heading straight to the UK is that their new "mother country" is mired in
economic crisis, and itself haemorrhaging talent to countries like
Switzerland, or—here is an irony—Angola. More than 2,50,000 have left in
the last four years.

When Portugal is competitive again, you can be sure Goan migrants will
start landing up in Lisbon—it is a deep-seated cultural value that has
always propelled the community around the world.

The story of global Goans is probably as ancient as the trade routes that
connected the age-old ports of this entrepot across the oceans. But there
is no doubt the process accelerated in the colonial era, in both British
and Portuguese spheres of influence. By 1900, an estimated 30% of Goa's
population had moved outside the territory, adventuresome pioneers who
brought great benefit to their new homes.

Pernem's Dr Bhau Daji Lad, twice Sheriff of Bombay, was a great native
figure of British India, the Mumbai city museum is named for him.
Porvorim's Dr Rosendo Ribeiro, the first physician in Nairobi, saved the
city from bubonic plague. A legion of Goans from Saligao helped build
Karachi. Cincinnatus D'Abreu left a neighborhood in his name, Cincinnatus
Town.

Few people realize there is still an important Goan fishing community
living in the port of Catembe, Mozambique, which gathers together just like
their counterparts in
Candolim, on the feast of
Sao Pedro on June 29, to point their boats across the oceans from where
their ancestors came, to celebrate continuing prosperity.

Further up the coastline, living in the tiny Comoros Islands, is Dr Godfrey
Coutinho, whom I read about in the excellent diaspora website Goan Voice (
goanvoice.org.uk). Coutinho's family is an archetypical example of
marvelous Goan wanderlust—one brother is a distinguished physician in
Uganda, and another a microfinance consultant in Tanzania. His grandfather
migrated from Goa in 1910, trekking as far as Congo, where he married an
African chieftain's daughter, "Mama Theresa, matriarch of the family."

I found the next generation of the Coutinho family via the internet, who
offered further illustration of the extraordinary fluidity of the Goan
diaspora. Nicky Osman Coutinho was born in South Africa, and writes, with
remarkable understatement, "My cultural portfolio is highly diverse." He
grew up in the Comoros, went to high school in Bordeaux, attended college
in Texas, and speaks Comorian (a Swahili dialect), French, English,
Spanish, and, believe it or not, Mandarin Chinese. He has been to 14
countries, but not India. When he finally visits, you can be sure he will
be at home.

That is the Goan ways.

The writer is a widely-
published author and
photographer.


http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/goa/Global-Goans-keep-spreading-their-wings/articleshow/48716849.cms
-- 
DEV BOREM KORUM

Gabe Menezes.

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