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       International Cuisine Conference on Traditional Asian Diet 
    Panaji, Goa, September 2-5, 2007  -  http://www.indologygoa.in
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REMINISCENCES OF MY GOAN YOUTH
(circa 1940)

THE FIRST MASS

MARCOS GOMES-CATAO


In the social life of the Catholic community in GOA of pre-Conciliar days, 
the village son's FIRST MASS at the Parish church, after ordination occupied 
a place of unique relevance, an occasion of unalloyed joy, celebrated with 
an eclat rivalling that of household son or daughter's wedding. In those 
days, a priest in the house was motive for considerable happiness and a 
source of pride. Unlike to-day, then the triad of teacher, priest and lawyer 
(the vernacular ' Dotor' )was held in high esteem, looked upon with great 
respect, if not reverence. Now, of course, with the degradation of ethical 
and moral values and the accentuation of material values, for one reason or 
another, the aura of those callings has somewhat dimmed, more particularly 
that of priesthood. It may not be out of context to mention here an article 
that appeared not too long back in the 'NEW YORK TIMES' discussing a poll 
carried out among American Catholic mothers regarding sacerdotal vocations. 
Almost unanimously, there was dismay at the thought their sons might become 
priests, among the motives cited being that they would not make money, they 
would not give them any grandchildren, etc. One went to the point of saying 
she would be very disappointed if it were to happen but she would not 
disinherit her son!

In the decades before the Council i.e. In the 20s to the 50s, Catholic 
religious life in GOA bubbled with intense and varied activities and 
practices, most of them now extinct, such as Apostleship of Prayer, Legion 
of Mary, groups of boy and girl Crusaders, etc. This effervescence was in no 
small measure fomented by a strong contingent of clerics emanating from the 
RACHOL Seminary in such numbers that most churches had two Curates besides 
the Vicar, and most large Chapels had a resident Chaplain.

>From the very inception of Catholicism in GOA there appears to have been a 
natural inclination towards priesthood among the native population so that 
the first GOAN priest could already be ordained by 1558, barely fifty years 
after Albuquerque consolidated the Portuguese hold on the state.

The oldest Seminary built in GOA was called "Seminario da Santa Fe"(Seminary 
of the Holy Faith), in Chorao But, the pestilence affecting the Island of 
Chorao (which had already emptied the City of Old Goa) necessitated the 
transfer of the Seminary in 1859 to RACHOL, a picturesque village by the 
river, a few miles from Margao The Seminary was entrusted to different 
Orders at different times but, on the expulsion of all religious Orders by 
the Portuguese Prime Minister, Marques de Pombal, it was finally confided to 
the secular clergy.

When the Seminary was transferred to RACHOL, somewhat distant for the people 
of Ilhas and Bardez, as a sop, in 1859 was set up the "Aulas Eclesiasticas 
de Mapuca" which in 1862 came to be known as "Aulas Filiais do Seminario de 
Rachol" where the first two years of the Preparatory course were taught. 
This establishment was provisionally closed in 1945 with the creation of the 
"Our Lady Seminary" in the Saligao-Pilerne plateau. The preparatory course 
in Rachol was then transferred to the new Seminary.

Initially the curriculum comprised only natural and moral philosophy, 
dogmatic and moral theology, Gregorian chant and Liturgy. Archbishop S. 
Galdino added Portuguese Grammar and elements of rhetoric, geometry and 
physics. Later, Archbishop Silva Telles complemented it with the study of 
general history, geography, church history Canon law and Sacred 
Hermeneutics. Thus, the Seminary began offering a "compleat" education 
equivalent to the secondary level, not easily available elsewhere, excepting 
at the Pangim Lyceum or the English Matriculation stream schools such as 
'Mater Dei' in Saligao, 'St. Joseph's, Arpora, the PARRA High School, etc 
(Loyola, Popular, Fatima, Nuvem, etc) came much later.

This led to a marked inflation in the overall enrolment, specially among the 
people of Salcete, irrespective of whether the boy did or did not manifest 
any inclination towards priesthood.

It came to the point that by the late 30s, the total figure was nearing a 
thousand so that when the new Patriarch of GOA, D. Jose da Costa Nunes first 
visited the Seminary and was apprized of the number, he was reported to have 
been mightily astonished and to have remarked "This is not the work of God 
but of the devil".

The Rachol Seminary is an impressive complex overawing one with its grandeur 
and splendour reeking of an air of spirituality (photo below)

The seminary church is small but, sited on a slight elevation, it is visible 
from miles around, specially from the Borim bridge whence students arriving 
from the Mapuca branch, for the final exams, get their first glimpse. Its 
mighty bell can be heard from all the adjacent villages.The church had many 
beautiful paintings and statues as also an altar with the coffin of St. 
Cajetan.

The lobby of the Seminary has an exquisite painting of Portuguese D. 
Sebastiao executed by the famous GOAN architect from Raia, Andre Constancio 
Augusto.There is also a magnificent gallery of paintings of former 
Patriarchs.

The fact that the enrolment ballooned so much perforce led to a break-up in 
the overall course. The preparatory course comprised 6-7 years: in the first 
four years the students had a strong concentration on Latin but also studied 
French, Portuguese and Literature. The following 2-3 years were devoted to 
Maths., Science, History & Geography, English and rhetoric.. By the end of 
this period, generally those who had come to take advantage of the good 
education dropped out. During this period the students lived outside the 
Seminary in rented houses known as 'Comensalidades"(chummeries), 12-20 to a 
house, depending on its size, under the supervision of a Prefect, generally 
a newly ordainded priest. The Prefect was responsible for the temporal and 
spiritual well-being of his wards: he looked after the food (with the help 
of a 'mesta', of course) recreation, studies and accounts. At the end of the 
month, total expenses were divided among the number of students living in 
that house. It was a generally economical education, around Rs.10-12 per 
month.

Students wore standard uniforms: long trousers and coats buttoned up to the 
collar with brass buttons (shone every Saturday), khaki for daily wear and 
dark blue for occasions.

Early morning all went to the church for Mass, came back for breakfast and 
then went back again for classes at the Seminary building itself. Exams were 
held at the end of the year and were mostly "viva voce" ( i.e. Oral). One 
faced a panel of three Professors, one of whom was the 'Home Professor' i.e 
the one that had taken you up through the year. This, at times, could lead 
to unexpectedly invidious situation to some students in case two of the 
Professors were not overly friendly!

At the end of the Preparatory course, the students moved 'in' into the 
Seminary itself. At this time they started donning the cassock (soutane) as 
well as the biretta( a square black cap specific to Catholic and Anglican 
clergy, which has fallen into desuetude after Vatican Council II. I was 
enormously surprised and gratified to see a youngish priest wearing the 
biretta, about five years back, on a trip to Bavaria since this was most 
certainly a post-Conciliar priest and so ans thus, wearing a biretta could 
only have been a matter of strong conviction rather than mere tradition.

After two years of Philosophy, the candidates moved on to four years of 
Theology during which time they also studied Gregorian chant and Liturgy.

During the last two years, procedures for full initiation into priesthood 
started taking shape. The candidates began practising delivering sermons 
from the pulpit to the congregation of assembled students. Though some were 
visibly embarassed, and at times tongue-tied, and even committed gaffes they 
always had the benefit of a sympathetic and comprehending audience, never 
prone to snickering or otherwise shaking the orator's confidence.

That was a time too, when the Minor Orders started being administered, the 
first being Tonsure (a round clean shave at the top back of the head, the 
size of a silver dollar or rupee,) a distinctive sign of a priest in those 
days.. There followed the Orders of Acolyte, Sub-deacon and Deacon. Finally 
dawned the much awaited and eagerly looked forward to day of the Ordination.

carried out at the Seminary or at the Old Goa Cathedral or, more rarely, at 
the Patriachal Palace in Pangim. The newly ordained priest then returned to 
his village/town for his FIRST MASS at his parish, followed by a resounding 
reception at home. Relatives, friends and known village folks poured in to 
participate in the family's joy and share the magnificent banquet prepared 
by well-known chefs.

My uncle was for decades a Professor at the Seminar and so, we were always 
inundated with invitations for FIRST MASS celebrations from his ex-students 
and I was the lucky one to be present for many of them. When we moved from 
Mapuca to Belgaum, such occasions came to an end.

Out of the many receptions I attended, one has stuck vividly in my mind.. It 
was the FIRST MASS of a very close relative from a village quite close to 
our home. The house was flooded with cousins and friends from all over the 
State, Ilhas, Salcete and, of course, Bardez coming in all kinds of 
transport: rented horse-carriages, taxis, private cars, scheduled bus 
services. For a change there was even a small band! While the adults 
gossiped, we children had great fun because the house had a very large 
orchard with dozens of guava trees laden with delicious fruit. And 
so,between intervals of gorging ourselves with the fruit, we would rush into 
the house to gulp glasses of 'orchata', that supreme almond drink, nectar of 
the gods, now unfortunately unavailable (even in Italy, its birth-place it 
is difficult to-day to find a good bottle of orchata)..Time sped by and it 
was time for lunch: the inevitable bird carved from ice adorned the centre 
of the large table laden with the most exquisite food 
imaginable:salmon,chicken gallantine, Apa de camarao (prawn pie), sorpotel, 
vindaloo, roast beef and naturally, the never missing roast pigling with the 
apple in the mouth.

Soon it was time for the toast. The toastmaster was a venerable Professor 
known for his wit and repartee. He had been fortifying himself generously at 
Bacchus' fountain, and was thus in high spirits, literal and metaphorical.

"Ladies & Gentlemen", he started and went on working himself up delineating 
the family genealogy, extolling the great virtues and scholarship of a 
grand-uncle priest, passing on then to the outstanding intellectual and 
spiritual gifts of the new celebrant, until he came to the climatic "Viva 
Pe. Alvaro". But, having worked himself up to a state of high animation, 
instead of gently raising his glass, he plunged it forward 'con molto 
animo'(to borrow a musical expression), splashing the champagne on the 
celebrant standing by his side to his utter discomfiture, his own acute 
embarassment, the repressed mirth of the other bystanders and loud guffaws 
and finger-pointing from us children despite sibilant psssss from our 
parents! Thus ended that memorable celebration with an Unexpected, Unique 
and Unconventional Second Baptism of the new priest.

After that I did not have too many experiences of such receptions. But, in 
early 80s, on a holiday from Brazil, we arrived in time for the FIRST MASS 
of the son of a very close neighbour, family friend for decades. We decided 
not to go for the reception but merely drop in later in the day to 
congratulate the mother whom I had known since the age of ten. But for some 
reason or another, may be the unusual epicurean abilities of the chef or the 
extraordinarily voracious appetite of the guests, the table had been 
literally wiped 'clean'!, specially all the desserts. So, when we arrived 
the poor old lady felt acute embarassment at being unable to offer us 
anything, despite protestations from us that we had come to partake her joy 
, not necessarily of the victuals. But, she would not conform herself and 
even when we departed, as we went down the long flight of steps of the 
balcony to the road, we could see her nodding her head sideways deprecating 
the fact that we were leaving without the flavour of anything in our 
palates, specially her justly famous 'bibinca'.   (ENDS)


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