THE PRINTED WORD
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OF RAVES AND ANJUNA

A researcher puts
together a new book
offering new insights
into the rave scene,
and a photographer
focuses on Goa's
tiatrists, writes
Frederick Noronha.

Recently, an Australian lady journalist wrote in to enquire: "Have
rave parties been formally banned by the Government and when? So are
the tourists who normally visit Goa for rave parties (eg. the
Israelis) going elsewhere?"

Raves, or whatever else one calls them, that happen on the North Goa
coast, are a little understood reality in Goa. Journalists sitting in
Panjim or elsewhere have been accused of sensationalising the topic,
almost randomly, every once in a few years. Police make bold
statements from their headquarters, but the reality is something else.
Politicians talk of a 'clamp down' often has implications other than
that of cleaning up the system....

'Psychedelic White: Goa Trance and the Viscosity of Race' is Arun
Saldanha's new tome on this work. I knew Arun as a young researcher,
and currently he's assistant professor of geography at the University
of Minnesota.

His book has been described thus: "In 'Psychedelic White', Arun
Saldanha proposes a highly original theory of race as a dynamic event
arising from a complex field of embodied encounter whose fundamental
contingency it can never fully shake off. A major new statement that
will contribute centrally to debates in the fields of race and
globalisation studies." (Brian Massumi, Universitéde Montrél.)

In simpler terms: "The village of Anjuna, located in the coastal
Indian state of Goa, has been one of the premier destinations on the
global rave scene. Tourists travel to Goa to take part in
round-the-clock dance parties and lose themselves in the crowds, the
music, and the drugs. But do they really escape where they come from
and who they are? A rich and theoretically sophisticated ethnography,
'Psychedelic White' explains how race plays out in Goa's white
counterculture."

Comprising 239-pages, this book is published by the University of
Minnesota Press in Minneapolis and London.

Published in 2007, it is not available in India (my review copy came
in by post) and falls in the category of race studies, travel and
geography. ISBN-13 978-0-8166-4994-5. The author can be emailed at
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Check out the contents of the book to get an idea of what it contains
-- Psychedelic Whiteness, What Materialism?, Tripping on India, Goa
Freaks, Drugs and Difference, Faces of Goa, Zombie Beach... and more.

Much of this work has a bias towards academic theory. But there's
still a lot to learn from the local nuggets that crop up, for anyone
interested in understanding Goa a bit better.

Some interesting maps here too. One of the Hippy trail from the early
1970s -- Goa, Bombay, Karachi, Kandahar, Kabul, Beirut, Cairo, Athens,
Rome, Prague, Berlin, Copenhagen, Ibiza, Marrakesh, Rangoon, Bangkok,
Singapore, Bali (and elsewhere in the Americas and Australia).

Another useful map comes on page 32. Saldanha, of Mangalorean origins
himself, writes: "It is interesting to learn of Anjuna's cosmopolitan
and tumultuous past."

An interesting book, all in all.

* * *

PORTRAITS OF ARTISTES

I ran into the work of Alex Fernandes, a Bombay-Goan resettled in Goa,
first via cyberspace. It struck me as being very classy, artistic and
creative.

1963-born Fernandes is putting up his first one-man exhibition,
showcasing the portraits of tiatrists. This is currently   on show at
Literati (on the Calangute-Candolim road) in early Jan 2008.

To accompany the event, Fernandes has put out a well-printed book
which consists of a couple of essays and photos by the artiste.

This long-sustained, commercially successful form of the Konkani stage
has been orphaned for long. It's considered too Catholic for it to get
sufficient State backing or stage-space at the Kala Academy. And,
ironically, the Catholic elite and middle-classes themselves look down
on it as being too plebeian and "crude".

Finally, it was left to scholars like Pramod Kale to grant the tiatr
some degree of legitimacy, by writing that long academic essay he did
in the 'Economic and Political Weekly' some years ago.

Now, Fernandes, with his classy portraits of the artistes from the
tiatr stage, could take this folk art form to another plane. Let's
hope that happens. Fernandes can be contacted at
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

* * *

AN INVITE

One thing leads to another. In 1983, while at the Goa University, I
stumbled across an essay by Dr Robert S Newman called 'Goa: The
Transformation of an Indian Region' (in Pacific Affairs). It struck me
that for the most we in Goa didn't understand 'our' own region as did
others writing on it.

That led me to many years of collecting books on Goa, and writing on
it (as a journalist). Recently, an accidental phone call led me to
suggest and start writing this column for the Gomantak Times.

Last Saturday (Dec 29, 2007), a small alternative venture I've worked
on -- http://goa1556.goa-india.org --  released its first book,
authored by Yvonne Vaz-Ezdani, titled "Songs of The Survivors", on the
Goan community that lived in Burma (Myanmar). Please check out the
details at http://goa1556.goa-india.org/index.php?page=songs-of-the-survivors

--
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