Revisiting Baina: a forgotten chapter Most Goans remained unaware of it, pretended it didn't exist, or just thought it was not "their" problem. But -- till it was speedily and brutally demolished -- this squalid and sleezy underbelly of this touristic State showed up another side of Goa.
Bang on a once-scenic beach -- only one of two prominent beaches near Goa's most-populous Vasco da Gama town -- a slum sat alongside the squalid red-light quarter. As one visited, two young women probably just out of their teens, wore garish skirts and two-inch heels, forcing a smile on their tension-writ faces. Many of these `girls' were rural women from coastal Andhra Pradesh, and quite a few from Karnataka. Their lives uprooted by poverty, probably cyclones, and waves of disastrous famines, their hope was to making a better living in this slum on the country's other coast. It was a life of bondage. Even if they earned more, they could hardly save. One rule that dominated Baina is that you pay back two thousand rupees for every thousand you borrow. Often prostituted women went in for small loans, of a few thousand. But repayment-calculations were kept by the brothel-keepers, deliberately calculated to keep the women sunk in perpetual debt. Finally, when the Goa government clamped down on this area, demolishing it out of existance, it was an even worse disaster -- sex-workers were left without a living. And the problem now shows signs of having spread across the State. In most Goan discourse over the subject, the `girls' were seen as `non-Goans', and got little sympathy. Since the clientele themselves were believed to also be largely `non-Goan' -- including single-residents of the port town that houses large industrial, naval, ship-building and other commercial activities -- this further hardened the this-is-not-our-problem attitude many Goans adopted. Says Arun Pande, a Tata Institute of Social Science-trained social worker who worked long in the area: "People stigmatised entire Baina as a place for prostitution. Actually the (red-light) area was only a small part of what is called Baina beach." One local resident agreed: "People thought that the whole of the Baina locality is notorious. But there were quite a number of middle-class residents living there (some who settled even before the trafficking in women picked-up in the boom that came after the 'sixties)." Out of some 6000 people who lived in and around the slum area, there were an estimated 1500-2000 in prostitution. In recent years, Pande, along with social worker Zarine Chinvalla and others who were part of the organisation, worked from the midst of Baina's Jannat Gali. Lanes in this crowded and neglected area were sometimes named after the madams of the area. They say the red-light area itself had four clear groups there -- victims of prostitution (including women and children), perpetrators who cause it and allow it to continue, persons vulnerable to prostitution and groups not in any way directly connected with prostitution. Holding the key to this problem were the traffickers. This small, well-organised, barely-known to the outside world network made it possible for Baina's operations to continue and for men to prey on poverty-striken women some of whom came from nearly a thousand kilometres away. Traffickers not just transported and brought in the `girls'. By keeping these women in debt-bondage, they played a key role in ensuring their continued stay at Baina. Traffickers were agents who recruited -- under various promises -- and transported the women. Sometimes they could be even a relative, uncle or mother. At times, they were brothel-keepers, customers and pimps. There are also mards, the male-figures who lived off the earnings of the women. For those who landed up at Baina, the situation was bleak. Goa unfortunately has had no clear stand on trafficking. Till recently, Goa lacked a functional State protective home for rescued women -- not just a bal-niketan that looks after children. So the women were portrayed as the villains, with little effort made to highlight the factors that kept them there in the first place. Occasional moral outrage in Goa had focussed on shunting back the women to their home State. "Yet it is the trafficker who's in control of the business. In the Immoral Traffic Act, some 90 per cent of the provisions say the traffickers should be punished," says Pande. Added to this, the women from this slum or red light area carried multiple burdens. Not only were they illiterate, but they were also migrant and low-caste. Efforts to come to grips with the problem were mostly hamstrung. Few, if any, understood the political roots of this situation. Earlier this decade, the Goa government went on a high-profile `shut-down and clear-up' drive. Police cordoned off the area, harassing anyone getting through. Unsuccessful attempts were made to resettle the sex-workers in the village of Ribandar, some 25 kms from their location. Local villagers opposed the idea. Goa BJP's government had offered a `rehabilitation' package to some 250-odd women. Power was temporarily cut to the area. Members of the BJP-appointed Goa State Women's Commission sought to convince the `gharwalis' and the prostituted women to pack and move into a State-transport Kadamba bus, to no avail. * * * But this sudden and unexplained campaign -- targetting more the women rather than the networks behind Baina -- led to suspicions that it was fuelled by a real-estate land-grab, port-expansion plans or road widening goals. Since the late 'nineties, repeatedly attempts have been made to demolish it. Mormugao is one of the major ports in India. Congress leaders charged that the official blitzkrieg was a retribution by the BJP government as the area had voted for the Congress in the previous elections. Researchers Anita Haladi and Shaila DeSouza pointed to press reports that human rights violations were taking place in Baina, "due to a lack of an alternative source of income following the High Court Order in July 2003." Since January 2004, the area was cordoned off by police personnel who deny entry to potential customers. Later, on June 14, 2004 in one swift move, the then Goa government struck and demolished Baina. But not before residents fought back and eyewitness accounts described pitiful scenes with women and children crying for a truce. Some 250 cubicles in a 20,000 square metre area had been demolished. Activist Sridhar Kamat and women rights campaigners Albertina Almeida were arrested. "When I was dragged by the police at Baina in 2004, the police officer Mahesh Gaonkar watched as I and another woman were threatened with rape by some local men," commented lawyer-activist Ms Almeida in a public post on this topic, made recently in October 2008. Commented the local newspaper Gomantak Times: "What happened in Baina on Monday was on par with what happened when the then Chief Minister of Maharashtra Abdul Rehman Antulay razed the homes of thousands of pavement-dwellers in Mumbai at the height of the rainy season and banished them to the furtherest swamps... it also takes us back to the Turkman Gate during the infamous days of the Emergency." Commented women's campaigner Sabina Martins: "Never before in my two-plus decades of social activism did I encounter such large scale sadism that I witnessed in Baina on June 14, 2004. The mass scale destruction of people's homes in the midst of the monsoons, all in the name of clearing the red light area, was a bolt out of the blue for thousands of residents in the area who in their wildest dreams had not dreamt that their homes would come down under the bulldozers." She added: "The scenes that I witnessed were pathetic. Scores of women and children lay huddled along the roads with their meager belongings. Babies, some a few days old, were in the arms of their mothers who were trying to protect them under their sari pallo. All along the road as far as your eyes could see were groups of displaced people looking all lost, tragedy writ large on their faces. The people did not have a drop of water or a morsel of food the whole day." But others saw the issue differently, with the anti-migrant local sentiment also surfacing sometimes. "By and large the citizens of Vasco finally have something to smile about, after today's long pending action. The blot that brought a bad name to this beautiful Port Town has finally been wiped out from the geographical map," commented Vasco da Gama resident Daniel de Souza. Mormugao councillor Milton Baretto told journalists that the local civic body was considering a change in the name of the Baina locality, obviously to fight off the stigma it had gained over the years. "What happened in Baina is a forewarning of what could happen in Goa especially since the Goa Land (Prohibition of Construction) Act 1995, (Section 6) allows the Government to demolish any construction without giving any notice provided that it is Government land and it is being used for `public purpose'. In such a scenario the intervention of human rights organisations and activists is essential so that Emergency is not repeated under a democratic garb," added researcher Shaila de Souza. These perspectives need to be remembered, even if Baina may seem like a closed chapter. [This extract is from the book 'Picture-Postcard Poverty: Unheard voices, forgotten issues from rural Goa' by by Kalanand Mani and Frederick Noronha, that was released in November 2008 in Goa. Available from Broadway Book Stall, Panjim and other outlets. Rs 150, pp 132. International Sex-Workers' Rights Day was observed this week.] PHOTO: Children at Baina, pre-demolition.