Fashion of the Gods
Devdutt Pattanaik
I was browsing through famous fashion designer, Wendell Rodrigues wonderful
book on Goan fashion — Moda Goa. In tracing earliest fashion that may have
existed in the Goan region, we enter the realm of mythology and discover
images of gods still worshipped who display what would have been the clothes
of our ancestors. I say our ancestors, and not just ancient Goan clothing,
because I realised the same clothing would have been seen across India.
Goa, like much of the Western coast of India, is associated with Parashuram,
the Ram who held an axe, and belonged to the clan of Bhrigu sages. It is
postulated that he is perhaps a mythic embodiment of sages who brought the
Vedic way of thinking to a land that was otherwise inhabited by hill tribes
(there are cave drawings and markings in Goa that can be traced to the Stone
Ages). What did Parashuram and the sages wear? It was probably ‘valkal’ —
fabric made by beating the leaves and bark of the banyan or pipal fig trees.
They may have also used animal hide. And bedecked themselves with flowers
(Lakshmi’s lotus), and leaves (Hanuman’s Arka) and seeds (Shiva’s
Rudraksha).
What stands out in the later period is the use of unstitched cloth draped in
various way around the body, and extensive use of jewellery. Both these
fashions indicate rise of settled communities because spinning, weaving,
dyeing, mining, smelting and smithy demands expertise.
Some of the images — the most spectacular being that of Bhairava, known
locally as Betaal — reveal guardian gods and fertility goddesses who wear
nothing but huge chunky jewellery. Was this reality or artistic fantasy, we
will never know. But many tribes around the world wear jewellery and expose
parts of the body that modern society considers private.
A common dress worn by the tribes even today, and could have worn in ancient
times, is a simple woollen blanket thrown over the shoulders and a loin
cloth around the genitals, or a sarong wrapped around the waist. Were these
the clothes that the vanars or ‘monkeys’ of Kishkinda wore when they
encountered Ram and Lakshman?
With the rise of what is called the classical, or pre-Islamic period, comes
the use of men and women draping cloth mostly cotton, sometimes Indian silk
and occasionally shimmering expensive Chinese silk with gold threads
interwoven — one cloth for the poor to cover the lower parts, two cloths for
the slightly rich to cover upper and lower bodies, and three clothes for the
very rich to cover even the head with a veil or turban. Gradually, women in
Goa, as in many parts of the Deccan, wore the eight or nine-yard sari, the
upper and lower garment fused into one, wrapped creatively, the lower part
like a dhoti and the upper part like a shawl draped across the breasts.
It is interesting to see how the dress of the gods changes with time. The
fashion of the gods influenced the community and the community influenced
the gods. Typical of Goa and Karnataka, the Shiva-linga is covered with huge
brass and silver masks. And the face looks like a Maratha warrior complete
with moustache and turban. And the goddesses have a classical
half-moon-shaped nose-ring, which is common in Maharashtra too.
Interesting too is the importance of cosmetics, especially pastes and
unguents to wash the body and keep away body odour. Hence the practice of
giving daily baths with oil and water and unguents to deities, a reminder of
what the devotees are also supposed to do. One does not realise how much
knowledge is locked in the temples of India. We just have to look and I am
glad Wendell did.
Source:
http://www.mid-day.com/columnists/2012/jul/220712-Opinion-Devdutt-Pattanaik-Fashion-of-the-Gods.htm