Okay, it rained here yesterday and I got bored. I decided to re-lube the upper A-arm joints since they tend to dry out and cause an annoying squeak in the front end. Believe me, they WILL eventually dry out and if you wait too long to perform this procedure you will have to replace the bearings. It takes about 2 1/2 hrs and isn't too hard. Here's the procedure: 1. Place the bike on the centerstand and remove the front fender, top glove box, two black dash panels and both left and right side front fairings. The head fairing can be left on. Remove the "Rubber mat" that lays on top of the upper A-arm. (Two small screws up front, then pull-twist to release the rubber lock tabs along the front) 2. You should have clear access to the upper A-arm pivot points where they attach to the frame. All references to "Left" and "Right" will be as if you are sitting in front of the bike facing the headlight. Clip the small zip tie securing the rubber boot to the left side pivot and remove the boot. 3. Using a ratcheting socket, remove the nut from the left side pivot bolt. It is accessed near the bottom of the radiator. Don't lose the washer. 4. Go to the right side. Look at the pivot point from the outside. You'll see a large, dark colored hex head bolt with an even larger lock nut screwed onto it. Behind the lock nut is a locking tab that needs to be pryed off the lock nut. Now, remove the lock nut. 5. Using a ratcheting socket, remove the inside nut from the right side pivot bolt. This can expedited using by inserting a hex wrench into the outside of the pivot bolt and turning it instead of the ratchet. Again, don't lose the washer. 6. Look at the left outside pivot bolt and notice how it has one flat side that matches up with the frame notch. Using a small hammer, tap, tap, tap the pivot bolt from the inside until it is removed. 7. Now unscrew the right side pivot bolt until the threads are disengaged from the frame. Tap, tap, tap the right side pivot bolt until it is fully removed. 8. You should now be able to move the upper A-arm assembly around enough where you can get full access to one side at a time as it will swivel left or right. 9. Pivot the A-arm and gain free access to the left side. Slide the bearing sleeve from inside the A-arm bearing. You should be able to see the needle bearing inside. 10. Apply a liberal amount of grease inside the bearing and work it around with your finger. Slide the bearing sleeve back in and make sure it turns easily. 11. On the right side, there are TWO smaller bearing sleeves that insert from each side. Remove them and apply grease to the inside pivot bearing. Don't be alarmed that it doesn't look like the other side. It's not a needle bearing assembly. After applying grease, make sure the bearing is positioned so that the bolt can pass through. You'll see what I mean when you get there. 12. Re-insert the bearing sleeves on both sides and position the A-arm in alignment with the left and right frame holes. Lightly grease the right side pivot bolt where it will contact the bearing and screw it in through the frame and into the bearing. Leave about 1/4 to 3/8 inch of the threaded bolt showing on the outside of the frame. 13. Lightly grease the left side pivot bolt and re-insert it through the frame and into the bearing. Make sure that the flat notch on the bolt lines up with the frame notch. 14. Replace flat washers and nuts securing both pivot bolts. You should now be able to screw the right side pivot bolt in and out which adjusts the camber of the wheel. Notice how the upper A-arm assembly moves left and right. Simply place it somewhere near the middle of the adjustment range. 15. Slide the lock tab washer over the right side pivot bolt and screw the lock nut down tight. Tap the lock tab down over the locknut. 16. Using two zipties, re-attach the rubber boot the left side pivot bolt. DONE! It may be necessary to order a new lock tab washer for the right side pivot bolt, but they seem to be re-usable once. I also order an extra rubber boot, turn it upside down and use it on the right side! Why Yamaha only boots one side is a mystery to me. There is a drainage hole that ends up pointing up instead of down on the right boot so I simply siliconed the hole shut and cut a small hole on the bottom side. Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC AMA #609423 // [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000
