Not trimming this on purpose - for those who didn't save it.
Kevin
Thanks - your instructions are much clearer than the manual.
The reason Yamy only boots the left side is all of the exposed bushing is
potentially the inner race for the needle bearing (if you have to adjust
camber) and they're trying to keep it clean/unrusted (musta saved $.02/bike
only doing one side). I like your idea of adding a boot on the right, I'm
going to get one. You didn't mention the right bearing is a spherical rod
end type, need to rotate the ball sideways & grease (alright, you implied it
but ya need to spell it out for us idjits). Which brings me to a question -
how difficult is it to replace the spherical bearing? Since the original
owner didn't add the extra boot I found that the ball was slightly rusty. I
cleaned it as well as possible and greased it liberally but it's life is
gonna be short. (residual rust + grease = lapping compound). Is this
something that is reasonable to attempt or leave to the dealer?
For anyone attempting this service, many of the parts including the washers
are heat treated. If you lose or otherwise need to replace one, GO BUY ONE.
Raiding your parts bin is a bad idea.
Thanks again Kevin, although I am beginning to wonder. You describe how to
fix something and shortly my bike needs it. I think the damn thing is
sneaking in while I'm at work and reading your messages for symptoms.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Hawkins, Kevin L, SITS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 12:12 PM
Subject: Save this message!! Does your front swingarm squeak?
>Okay, it rained here yesterday and I got bored. I decided to re-lube the
>upper A-arm joints since they tend to dry out and cause an annoying squeak
>in the front end. Believe me, they WILL eventually dry out and if you wait
>too long to perform this procedure you will have to replace the bearings.
It
>takes about 2 1/2 hrs and isn't too hard. Here's the procedure:
>
>1. Place the bike on the centerstand and remove the front fender, top glove
>box, two black dash panels and both left and right side front fairings. The
>head fairing can be left on. Remove the "Rubber mat" that lays on top of
the
>upper A-arm. (Two small screws up front, then pull-twist to release the
>rubber lock tabs along the front)
>2. You should have clear access to the upper A-arm pivot points where they
>attach to the frame. All references to "Left" and "Right" will be as if you
>are sitting in front of the bike facing the headlight. Clip the small zip
>tie securing the rubber boot to the left side pivot and remove the boot.
>3. Using a ratcheting socket, remove the nut from the left side pivot bolt.
>It is accessed near the bottom of the radiator. Don't lose the washer.
>4. Go to the right side. Look at the pivot point from the outside. You'll
>see a large, dark colored hex head bolt with an even larger lock nut
screwed
>onto it. Behind the lock nut is a locking tab that needs to be pryed off
the
>lock nut. Now, remove the lock nut.
>5. Using a ratcheting socket, remove the inside nut from the right side
>pivot bolt. This can expedited using by inserting a hex wrench into the
>outside of the pivot bolt and turning it instead of the ratchet. Again,
>don't lose the washer.
>6. Look at the left outside pivot bolt and notice how it has one flat side
>that matches up with the frame notch. Using a small hammer, tap, tap, tap
>the pivot bolt from the inside until it is removed.
>7. Now unscrew the right side pivot bolt until the threads are disengaged
>from the frame. Tap, tap, tap the right side pivot bolt until it is fully
>removed.
>8. You should now be able to move the upper A-arm assembly around enough
>where you can get full access to one side at a time as it will swivel left
>or right.
>9. Pivot the A-arm and gain free access to the left side. Slide the bearing
>sleeve from inside the A-arm bearing. You should be able to see the needle
>bearing inside.
>10. Apply a liberal amount of grease inside the bearing and work it around
>with your finger. Slide the bearing sleeve back in and make sure it turns
>easily.
>11. On the right side, there are TWO smaller bearing sleeves that insert
>from each side. Remove them and apply grease to the inside pivot bearing.
>Don't be alarmed that it doesn't look like the other side. It's not a
needle
>bearing assembly. After applying grease, make sure the bearing is
positioned
>so that the bolt can pass through. You'll see what I mean when you get
>there.
>12. Re-insert the bearing sleeves on both sides and position the A-arm in
>alignment with the left and right frame holes. Lightly grease the right
side
>pivot bolt where it will contact the bearing and screw it in through the
>frame and into the bearing. Leave about 1/4 to 3/8 inch of the threaded
bolt
>showing on the outside of the frame.
>13. Lightly grease the left side pivot bolt and re-insert it through the
>frame and into the bearing. Make sure that the flat notch on the bolt lines
>up with the frame notch.
>14. Replace flat washers and nuts securing both pivot bolts. You should now
>be able to screw the right side pivot bolt in and out which adjusts the
>camber of the wheel. Notice how the upper A-arm assembly moves left and
>right. Simply place it somewhere near the middle of the adjustment range.
>15. Slide the lock tab washer over the right side pivot bolt and screw the
>lock nut down tight. Tap the lock tab down over the locknut.
>16. Using two zipties, re-attach the rubber boot the left side pivot bolt.
>DONE!
>
>It may be necessary to order a new lock tab washer for the right side pivot
>bolt, but they seem to be re-usable once. I also order an extra rubber
boot,
>turn it upside down and use it on the right side! Why Yamaha only boots one
>side is a mystery to me. There is a drainage hole that ends up pointing up
>instead of down on the right boot so I simply siliconed the hole shut and
>cut a small hole on the bottom side.
>
>Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC
>AMA #609423 // [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy
>Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000
>
>
