As you have discovered, the ideal figure of the 1920s was small busted (and small hipped).  Some people who did not have the ideal figure wore bust reducers (or hip corsets); however I assume you don't want to do this.  These are not tightly fitted dresses.  I would just wear it to fit the bust comfortably but not tightly. Alternatively, you can try the style with a dropped waist and a gathered skirt. I have occasionally seen bust darts for this two-piece style but they are not common. Yes, you can wear a short-sleeved dress, but the sleeves were often not set in, but drafted as part of the bodice.  A closure I have often seen is an opening at one shoulder closed with snaps. I would recommend a booklet called the "One-Hour Dress."  There are three editions and they are sold by various people on Etsy.  This shows how to draft the basic straight dress, which can then be varied with trimmings.  The trimmings can be used to flatter your figure.

Fran

Lavolta Press

www.lavoltapress.com


On 5/10/2019 11:14 PM, Cascio Michael wrote:
Hi All,
     Another question for the list.  As I'm working with 1920s repro vintage 
patterns I find some of them don't use bust darts of any species.  And I'm not 
working with a knit for this project.  How do I change a B cup into fitting a 
DD cup without adding darts?  Or can I add darts and be period correct for the 
1920s?  This is a basic sheath dress with no waistline seam and no matter how I 
tone my body the mountains are not getting any smaller.  Would a bias cut help 
or is the difference in circumference too great?  I'm looking to get a better 
fit than straight down from the bust point.  Also I may need to add an opening 
to this one to get in and out.  I don't think there were zippers in the 1920s 
so would it be buttons, hooks and eyes, lacing or something else?   I'd also 
like a summer sleeve for this.  Is a short sleeve acceptable?  Most of the 
fashion plates I see don't show a short sleeve.  It's either sleeveless of a 
long fitted sleeve.  Sleeves don't seem to get interesting until the 1930s and 
bu then the body skimming day dress is out.
                                                                                
                                                                                
                          Cassandra
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