At 4:36 PM +0100 7/24/05, Jean Waddie wrote:
Sharon L. Krossa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wroteI'm coming to this discussion late (just having rejoined the list), but on an issue of terminology origin raised...At 8:31 AM -0700 7/22/05, Kahlara wrote:Yes, Jacobite shirt - I have also seen it refered to as a ghilie shirt, presumably because the opening was laced.<snip>The above are, of course, modern shoes, and, for that matter, the terms <ghillie brogue> and especially <ghillie shirt> are likewise modern. How far back the style of shirt now called <ghillie shirt> (or <Jacobean/Jacobite shirt>, etc.) goes, I don't myself know, though I would guess at very earliest early modern, and more probably later than earlier.Hi Sharon! Welcome back.
Thanks!
I don't recall the existence of Jacobite style shirts more than about 15 years ago. My perception is that they have been developed as people started wanting to wear the kilt in a less formal way - before that it was all collar and tie, or lace frills. The Jacobite shirt gives an option that's still dressy enough for weddings and parties, but more relaxed.
I agree that with modern kilt attire it is a relatively recent introduction -- in
Thompson, J. Charles . _So You're Going To Wear the Kilt!_. 3d ed., rev. Glasgow: Lang Syne Publishers Ltd, 1989. <http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/185217126X/medievalscotland> <http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/185217126X/medievalscotla02>
the author has a drawing on page 64 showing a sleeveless doublet with a similar style shirt (only with buttons rather than lacing) and legend "b) the peitean is a recent revival, very convenient for hot weather. It is often worn with a shirt in Colonial style." My copy of the book is the 1989 third revised edition and the first and second editions were published in 1979 and 1982, so that dates this style of kilt attire as a "recent revival" circa 1979-89 (depending on when it was first included in the book).
What I am not clear on is whether it happens to be a shirt style that existed earlier outside the context of kilt attire, either as a somewhat earlier but still very modernly invented "historical costume" style shirt, or even (perhaps coincidentally) as a much earlier actual worn by normal people as an everyday style shirt. I just don't know enough about 17th, 18th, and early 19th century shirt styles to know whether or not anything like it was seen in that period.
To partially answer my own question, outside the context of kilt attire the very full sleeved, collared, lace up neck opening shirt can be dated to at least 1975 in the stage costume of the Corries -- see <http://www.corries.com/images/newsclips/news47.gif> -- and it might even have worn by them in the 1960s -- see <http://www.corries.com/images/newsclips/news4.gif>.
Other places it occurs to me to look for modern (non-kilt attire) uses are early or mid-20th century films set in colonial America (cf Thompson's "shirt in Colonial style") or set on pirate ships.
But even examples from that context (and I don't know if there actually are any) would still leave whether this style was a 20th century invention attributed to/associated with earlier centuries, or actually the same or similar to something worn in the Colonial era or similar period. And that I just don't know (due to my own ignorance of the relevant periods) -- but I expect others might...
Sharon
--
Sharon Krossa, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
Medieval Scotland - http://www.MedievalScotland.org/
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