Thanks for the look up Kimiko.
Upon doing some more research on this fabric I have
come to find it's referred to at least modernly, as
Nacre Velvet, occasionally as cross weave or cross
dye. In this case, the ground yarns, often a twill or
tabby weave, or if very luxurious, a satin weave, is a
different colour from the pile yarns. When the velvet
moves and the pile opens up, the ground weave shows
through giving a pearlescent appearance thus the
reference to the nacre layers of a pearl. I can't find
any history on this whatsoever. I know that shot
fabrics existed, but this is a slightly different
kettle of fish. Given those references, does it ring
any more bells?
Kathy
> From Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, pg 362.
> "Changeable, Chaungeable: Obsolete term for shot
> silk, usually taffeta; the
> warp and weft of different colors change the
> appearance of the silk, giving
> an iridescent effect: mockado, p. 105; S, f.53v/114,
> f.69/63"
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