> Actually, there is another technique, rolled pleats. And they are > easy to sew into a waistband. My tailor, Stephen Bergdahl, used them > for my latest Elizabethan gown (I still have not learned how to do > them since I have not needed a new gown, yet). He said it was very > easy. And it does give the look of the full skirts in many of the > portraits.
Interesting - tell me more! Can Stephen describe them? Knife pleats can be made with many layering on top of each other, so they can handle the fullness. Most people who interpret 18th century are doing 1750 - 1780. The look was smoother from bodice to skirt, not the skirts coming out horizontally from the waist like you see in 17thC and mid 19thC. Somewhere along the line (17th/18thC), cartridge pleats ceased to be used. The portrait is earlier 18thC, and perhaps represents an opulent fantasy style. If anyone can get a look at extant upper class wear of the time, we would know if there were cartridge pleats or knife pleats. -Carol _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume