On 14/05/2006, at 1:07 PM, susannah eanes wrote:

I am making one last effort to find an extant set of regency era unboned stays (or having only a few bones). In my travels I have seen only 4 or 5 of these, and all are very different from one another. I do have one pattern a colleague is sharing for a front-closing version, but would really like to find at least 3 good examples that could reasonably be made by the average seamstress with a good pattern. If anyone knows of a set in either a private or public or any museum collection that we could go & study, that would be really nice.

If anyone has access to or can share information on these, I would appreciate it. We are working on this pattern for docent use at a living history site c.
1800-1815.

thanks for any and all information,
susannah
Fig & Folly Historic Patterns
www.fig-n-folly.com


Hi, Susannah,

The Kyoto Costume Institute sponsored an exhibit many years ago which travelled the world, called "Revolution in Fashion, 1715-1815." The original catalogue from that exhibit has become a seriously expensive collector's item, has now been re-printed, and, I have heard, is on the internet somewhere, although I haven't checked it out personally.

The catalogue has at least 3 pages of corsetry covering/bracketing your period, so I've listed here the two most relevant. Page 101 (with description on page 152) shows four corsets from the late 18th C (three from 1785, including one child's corset; and one from 1790). All of these pieces have boning in them to some degree, although one has only a little boning supplementing quilting.

Page 103 shows three corsets and a brassiere from 1820 or so (commentary for this page is also written up on page 152, along with a picture of the brassiere laid out flat). The 1820 corset is stiffened only with cording quilted in. The other three pieces are dated only as "early nineteenth century." The brassiere is described as "boned at bust" only; the other two corsets rely only on cord-quilting for their shapes.

Page 152 also has a French print of 1809, called "The Fad for Corsets," showing four women being laced into their corsets by their(?) menfolk. The corset shapes are a bit exaggerated, but the picture is clear enough to give you some idea of corsetry between the eras represented by the photo examples.

There are no credits given for the owners of any of these; it's fairly safe to assume that they all (still) belong to the Kyoto Costume Institute.

Hope this helps!

Beth Schoenberg
--- in warm and overcast autumnal Canberra

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