The problem with starting from a pattern block/sloper is, that a modern
sloper is a modern pattern with modern seam lines, etc. Now, you _can_
turn it into a historic pattern of any kind for any era, and some people
do.
(BTW, the Victorians manufactured a large number of "sloper" systems,
many as cardboard "charts", some in metal (such as the McDowell system,
which were designed to create a perfect-fitting "pattern block" the user
could adapt to any fashionable variant. AND if the company stayed in
business they had to update their sloper shape every few years to keep
their customers. Because, the basic bodice pattern shapes and even the
number of pieces in the bodice kept changing.)
Some people who are really comfortable with one method of producing a
pattern, such as using a pattern block/sloper or draping, get so
familiar with it that for them it is the easiest way to produce all
patterns, and they are sincerely convinced that therefore it is the
easiest method for everyone and everything.
However, in order to turn a pattern block into a historic corset or any
other kind of historic pattern, you already have to know a lot about
where seam lines are placed and other aspects of fit. Again, some
people do, and anyone else can research this.
But for some people, whether they have this information or not, it is
easier to start out with a historic pattern that already has the correct
number of pieces and correctly arranged seam lines--both very important
for a corset--and make the pattern fit their body.
In other words, if you are not using a presized pattern such as Past
Patterns, you have a choice between altering the style (using the
pattern block) and altering the fit (using the period pattern). Of
course, a one-size period pattern will be closer to some people's size
than other people's.
One area of confusion in discussing making corsets is that people do not
always say how much they are tight lacing. The more extreme the changes
you are trying to make in your body, the harder it is to make the corset
work.
And yes, fashionable S-bend Edwardians did often pad or otherwise "fake"
their bosoms (with things like a camisole under the dress with rows of
starched ruffles in front), and they did sometimes wear hip pads, and
there were many ingenious contrivances to create the silhouette in
addition to the corset.
They also assumed different fashionable postures in walking, standing,
etc. The basic high-fashion posture show in period illustrations is to
lean forward from the waist, push the bosom out, throw the head back,
and stick the behind out; and you'll notice sometimes, they push the
back of one hand in the small of the back.
Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Melanie Schuessler wrote:
I've seen this book, and I didn't care for it for the very same reason.
It seems counterintuitive to try to make a corset from a pattern
block. There's an entirely different principle at work--a different
kind of engineering, if you will. It seems to be a book for people who
want something that looks like a corset but doesn't actually function as
one.
Also politely disagreeing,
Melanie Schuessler
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