Thanks to all. Luckily this thing has a very full skirt, it's only
fitted above the waist, so I only have two measurements to really
worry about. What I found confusing in the past was that the
measurements listed on the back would suggest that I needed the
pattern to be about two sizes bigger than my normal dress size, and
then I'd get the pattern cut and it would turn out to be about two
sizes too big.
One of the reasons I thought the historical costume list would be a
place to inquire, I must confess, is that doing 18th C clothes had
changed my whole notion of what ease should do. The 18th century
stuff actually fits better and allows a better range of motion if it
is quite closely fitted -- my modern notion of ease in the shoulders
and arms actually makes a gown more constricting. It's like I get
hung up in the extra fabric. Where if the armscye is very close to
both the arm and the body, the sleeve somehow moves with me. And I'm
not using all that much ease in the circumference for breathing, what
with the stays and all -- most of my expansion seems to be upward
instead. Ease is one of those things that goes with modern, flat, cut-
and-construction methods, stretchy fabrics, soft underpinnings, and
mass-production sizes. Until I made 18th century garments I would
never have believed that sometimes a closer fit is actually better.
The thing I want to make is actually a 50s retro style that seems to
be back with a vengeance lately -- a halter-top dress with a wide
waistband running from below the bust to the real waist, and then a
full skirt. Sort of like Marilyn Monroe in the subway steam vent
scene. So I figure I need a close fit on the halter top to remain
decent. Which probably means NOT buying the size 18 pattern, even
though the back measurements think I should.
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Feb 6, 2007, at 3:23 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 2/6/2007 3:18:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
There's often a chart on the envelope with real
measurements for bust and hips, which is useful in determining which
size to cut. I still almost always have to take two inches off the
sides
for something that is "fitted". It's worse on some patterns than on
others, I guess it depends on who drafts them.
And, let's face it--some people don't allow enough ease in their
clothes!
As I remember, rib cage ease is 4-6 inches--that's to allow for
you to
breathe. And one's thighs do spread when one sits, so that hip
ease that seems too
much standing might be needed when seated.
The different companies always did use a slightly different body
style/type
and ease, even given the same measurements for sizes.
Best strategy is still, I think, to buy closest to your bust size,
as it is
easier to alter hips and waist.
Ann Wass
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