I agree on them being slashes and small cut out diamonds. I've heard such slashings were a sign the wearer was wealthy, as they could afford to "ruin" fabric with such work, as it made the fabric weaker and more difficult to reuse.
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 1:16 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth On the zoom at Sotheby's they look more like puffs/slash then a stud. But definitely not a jewel. The first picture from Chiara's site indicates that they are slashes, small pinkings between embroidered "Xs". You find the pink and X pattern on the sleeves under the arm where the horizontal slashes are. Note that the gold trim along the edge of the wide band at the hem is not solid gold, per say, it is either a lace type trim where you have two rows alternating in solid and open to create a two row check pattern or it is a braid or gold and red (russet?) alternating to create the two row checky pattern. This cording(?) is found on the bodice and sleeves. Also on the wide bodice and sleeves, the leaf pattern, the leaves may be pinking with a kind of running stitch for the stem but this is not 100% for sure. There is a possibility that the Xs and stem are gold wrapped thread. A sort of bullion stitch. On majority of the gown the stem and leaf pattern is singular, on the hem it is doubled and running in the same direction with a running line between them so as to looking a stem and leave are running in the other direction. The partlet is not as white as the sleeve puffs so it indicates that it probably is a sheer material. The embroidery appears to be polychrome and there looks to be some kind of drawn thread work on the main body of it. The ruffle is edged in gold and red/russet. Though at first glance the sleeves appear to have a sleeve roll, it is actually a darnley style sleeve. The singular stem and leaf embroidery on each side of the vertical slashes runs all the way to the arms eye. What gives the impression of a roll is that there is two stem and leaf with trim running parallel to the arms eye that has puffs coming out between the rows. The bodice neckline is snipped with white puffs. This dress appears to have a French influence. De -----Original Message----- At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote: >Here are the Norris comparison images >http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php > >Chiara Francesca OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs? I'm thinking studs, myself. I'm talking on the skirt. Hmmm..... Genie _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume