Sweet!

If you find the name of the book that quotes that, that would be great. :)

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 3:45 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

I do recall recently reading a list of sumptuary rules and noticing that
pinking/slashing was one of the things reserved for nobility. It said
something like, slashing/pinking may only be used if the person has a rank
of Baron or above. 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 4:44 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

First, the first image on my site is the one from the book everyone is
referring to, the second image IS the one that is on auction.

Second, can you cite where you read that cuts of various types were a sigh
of wealth? That would be a mecca for many of us who have been searching for
years for that elusive text source.

Chiara Francesca


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 5:07 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

I agree on them being slashes and small cut out diamonds. I've heard such
slashings were a sign the wearer was wealthy, as they could afford to "ruin"
fabric with such work, as it made the fabric weaker and more difficult to
reuse.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 1:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth

On the zoom at Sotheby's they look more like puffs/slash then a stud. But
definitely not a jewel.
The first picture from Chiara's site indicates that they are slashes, small
pinkings between embroidered "Xs". You find the pink and X pattern on the
sleeves under the arm where the horizontal slashes are.
Note that the gold trim along the edge of the wide band at the hem is not
solid gold, per say, it is either a lace type trim where you have two rows
alternating in solid and open to create a two row check pattern or it is a
braid or gold and red (russet?) alternating to create the two row checky
pattern. This cording(?) is found on the bodice and sleeves. Also on the
wide bodice and sleeves, the leaf pattern, the leaves may be pinking with a
kind of running stitch for the stem but this is not 100% for sure. There is
a possibility that the Xs and stem are gold wrapped thread. A sort of
bullion stitch.
On majority of the gown the stem and leaf pattern is singular, on the hem it
is doubled and running in the same direction with a running line between
them so as to looking a stem and leave are running in the other direction.
The partlet is not as white as the sleeve puffs so it indicates that it
probably is a sheer material. The embroidery appears to be polychrome and
there looks to be some kind of drawn thread work on the main body of it. The
ruffle is edged in gold and red/russet.

Though at first glance the sleeves appear to have a sleeve roll, it is
actually a darnley style sleeve. The singular stem and leaf embroidery on
each side of the vertical slashes runs all the way to the arms eye. What
gives the impression of a roll is that there is two stem and leaf with trim
running parallel to the arms eye that has puffs coming out between the rows.
The bodice neckline is snipped with white puffs. This dress appears to have
a French influence.

De

-----Original Message-----
At 04:15 PM 10/26/2007, you wrote:
>Here are the Norris comparison images
>http://www.glove.org/costume/current/elizabeth1.php
>
>Chiara Francesca

OK, so are those diamonds slashes, or jewels, or studs?  I'm thinking studs,
myself.  I'm talking on the skirt.

Hmmm.....

Genie


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