Lauren wrote:
>This may be stupid, but -- aren't their pocket *slits* in 
>some of the Herjolfsnes/Greenland finds? Which would suggest 
>underlying pockets 13th century, even though they don't 
>show up in paintings. 

It certainly seems likely that pocket slits are to provide access to 
*something* hidden under the outer layer of garments, and the common thought is 
that in at least some cases, that "something" is some sort of self-contained 
"pocket" or pouch (i.e. not sewn into the seam as is the case with modern 
pockets)
that is hung from some sort of waist tie or belt. 

What *form* that pouch takes, however, is less certain -- since we generally 
don't get to see it <g>. The surviving 17th-18th century pockets seem to be 
flat, closed at the top and with a slit or opened seam partway down one side, 
giving access to the contents. On the other hand, when we get to see earlier 
pouches (such as in a painting where someone has lifted up the outer layer to 
display them) they seem to be simple drawstring bags with the opening at the 
top. Same principle, different shapes.

I'd certainly consider it very plausible, for a lot of medieval and renaissance 
contexts, to make one or two of the drawstring type of pouch, hang it/them from 
a ribbon tied around my waist, and wear them under a top layer with pocket 
slits. I'd be more doubtful about the plausibility of the later, flat style of 
hanging pocket in contexts before about 1600. (Though I haven't looked at the 
Spanish example yet.) OTOH, I can testify that the later style is certainly 
easier to get one's hand into when you can't see what you're doing.... so 
practicality might win in that case. 

(I have a farthingaleI made with a two-piece adjustable waistband, and it has 
side openings from the waist down to about thigh level. I sewed a pair of just 
this sort of flat pockets into the lower part of the openings, so they hang 
down *inside* the hoops. There are corresponding pocket slits in the outer 
gown. Very practical to keep a bulky wallet, keys and checkbook in, and they 
don't show at all -- but I don't have any historical justification for it, just 
practicality.)

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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