On May 9, 2009, at 8:11 AM, debloughcostu...@aol.com wrote:
But period correct fabrics are more than available (easily), like
fulled wools, (admittedly I do live near several of the best wool
mills in Europe),
Must be nice! :-)
It's all a matter of compromise — the correct fulled wools may
be more expensive, or perhaps someone wants a particular color and
can't find it in the right weight. I've thrown wool into the dyepot
and then had it come out fuzzier than it started.
and flat felled seams are just as easy as french on a sewing machine.
However there is the idea that machine sewing should not be
visible in pre-machine tie periods. Of course there is also the
argument that good backstitching looks like machine sewing on the top
side. :-) And then there is finding a linen thread smooth enough to
run through a machine.
Overlocking may be necessary, but only if you're using the wrong
finish or technique, and hand overcasting using something like
whipstitch is just as easy, if a little more time consuming (not
much when you take into account the setting up of the machine) -
and I can't think offhand of a period when overcasting wouldn't be
correct - it was around during early medieval times and tudor
times, and it still was by victorian and mid 20th century.
While overcasting can be found, it still depends on which
garment and/or which fabric. 18th century shifts and shirts were flat-
felled, for example.
In reenactment, we have the luxury of concentrating on one time
period and can learn the details. I'm a big fan of basic standards
for groups. Within that, individuals learn and make their own
compromises. There may be a conflict of technique vs. the overall
look — the machine French seam with the non-offensive exterior
appearance.
Judges of competitions have a difficult job of determining
which compromise is better than another, not to mention comparing
work portraying different time periods!
-Carol
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