I'm making my first stays, for a mid-18th century robe. I'm short for time, so I started with a commercial pattern. Now that I've mocked it up, partially boned, I'm wondering how to check the fit.

How far up should it go on the bust?

How much support should it give the girls? I understand the fitting principles for GFD, but since these stays are flat-fronted, how do the girls stay, um, elevated? In other words, the support isn't from below, so what should a D cup-sized person be looking for here?

What other elements of fitting should I be checking?

Many thanks,
Siobhan
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