I am reminded of an advertising pamphlet that I ran across at the LOC
American Memory website:
http://scriptorium.lib.duke.edu/eaa/ephemera/A01/A0173/A0173-01-72dpi.html
from the late 19thC and which describes the evolution of the cut of
the sock, particularly the heel.

I'm not saying it's a great scholarly source or anything, but on the
other hand, a company who's made socks & stockings for a while would
know a decent amount.  If only they included dates!  And were less
racist!

-E House
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