Seeing all the replies, and reading about half of them because of lack of 
time...

Cotton stretches. Even drill stretches. A lot....as in there is at least an 
inch difference in where my bodice for my Margo's dress laces between washed 
but not worn, and an hour or so after I put it on and lace it snugly (i don't 
tight lace)....and it often stretches more by halfway through the day. One 
layer of cotton drill, with linen over,...two layers of drill on the front half 
under the one of linen.

Same goes for the stays I wear under it...a double layer of heavy cotton drill 
that had been washed and dried *hot* before cutting and fitting, with a fair 
number of boning channels that hug any bias angles closer.

If it gets wet, sometimes it'll stretch further (though not nearly as badly as 
linen).

All you can is cut it, make sure seams are secure (and  heavy interfacing can 
help...or the iron in, as it doesn't stretch much once ironed in)...and then 
deal with the fact that it *will* stretch between washings...and will look best 
when first put on for the day.  Guarantee that the dress made the same way in 
that time period also stretched...I have pictures of my mom and aunts that 
prove it, in fact.

-Liz H.  (Elisabeth...generally one of the quiet ones here...on here anyway :-)

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