I'm not an expert on this topic, but looking at the link to the fashion notes for the year, which refer to the "curious and startling" open-crowned coronet bonnet (toward the bottom of the left-hand column on that page), I'd say it's reasonably safe to assume that your leghorn does have a crown!

Emily


On 9/17/2013 2:11 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:
Hi,
Yes, the brim is wavy, but apparently that's a way of styling the "leghorn flat", since 
the written description calls it a "flat". (It's Fig. 2 in the descriptions here.)
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=185

So frequently, the descriptions assume we know the contemporaneous 
interpretation of the terms; they knew how this season's leghorn was shaped, 
and weren't thinking of us 120 years later trying to figure it out!

The previous issue's general discussion of fashion notes that the leghorn flat 
has made it's annual debut, and this year is twisted and bent as suits the 
wearer's fancy. 
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=86

I think I'm going with light, flexible straw -- that part of the definition of 
"leghorn" seems to have stayed pretty constant -- and hoping to use millinery 
wire to get the bends in the brim to stay put.

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net



On Sep 17, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:

As I recall, leghorn describes the type of straw the hat is made of. Also,
that brim is wavy, not flat at all. It's a gorgeous hat!


On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Lauren Walker
<lauren.wal...@comcast.net>wrote:

Hi,
Working on the last of the four 19th-century fashion plates I'm recreating
as doll outfits! I would like to check in with those more familiar with
19th-century millinery about the hat. It's  an 1889 "flat leghorn",
according to Godey's text; I'm trying to confirm that it has a low flat
crown rather than an open one or a completely flat one.
(figure on the right):
http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109
Any thoughts?
Thank you!
(The third outfit was a nightmare; I remade it four times. Eventually I
got the chiffon pleated in a satisfactory manner using a pleating board and
plenty of starch, but no heat. There will be photos of all once the full
project is done and the gift given to its intended recipient.)

Thanks again for all your aid. This has been so much fun! Even the pleat
nightmare.
Lauren


Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net




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