Janet Arnold shows the edges all being whipped down around the edges. Then they were joined by either being whipped together or faggoting.
On Fri, May 9, 2014 at 2:35 PM, Wicked Frau <wickedf...@gmail.com> wrote: > This what the Tudor Tailor (TT) has to say about shirts/smocks finishing: > "The fact that shirts and smocks were intended to survive regular washing > is evident in the construction of extant examples. The stitches are very > regular and tiny, often so small as to be invisible to the naked eye. The > strength of the selvedges was exploited in the long seams down the sides > which were butted together. Seams made along a cut edge have the raw part > carefully folded under and enclosed with another row of stitching." > > A number of years ago I picked up a man's shirt at a yard sale in Germany. > I took it to the Dennita Sewell, the fashion curator at the Phoenix Art > Museum with the idea of donating it to the museum (they were very happy to > add it to their collection). She said it was probably 19th century, but > certainly constructed just like they had been in the 16th and 17th > centuries. As stated in the TT the long side seams are butted with an > overcast on the inside. The cut portions are sewn and then folded over. > The folded over seams are hardly bigger than an 1/8 ". There is a lot of > entredeux work on the cuffs, and drawn work on the neck opening. > > The straight top stitching is so tiny and perfect that it is really hard to > imagine it was not done by machine, but as the rest of it is clearly hand > sewn, I think it is as well. > > I have yet to actually turn this garment over to the Museum. I intend to > photograph it carefully and post pictures before I do give it to them. I > will post pictures as soon as I have done this. > > Saragrace > > > > > On Fri, May 9, 2014 at 10:18 AM, Ginni Morgan <ginni.mor...@doj.ca.gov > >wrote: > > > I think Arnold covered this in Patterns of Fashion, but I could be wrong. > > I'm at work and all my costume books are packed up anyway. My guess is > a > > small rolled hem on any cut edge. The openwork stitching that attached > one > > piece of cloth to another needs something to anchor it that won't fray > > apart under strain. It is my understanding that the garments were often > > taken apart for washing and sunbleaching. Thus each piece would need to > be > > finished. > > > > Ginni > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] > On > > Behalf Of Liz H. > > Sent: Friday, May 09, 2014 9:55 AM > > To: h-costume@mail.indra.com > > Subject: [h-cost] Chemise/Shift question > > > > I'm sure sometime has answered this sometime over the years, but I can't > > seen to find it... > > > > In the 1480-1600 period of time, does anyone know how the edges of the > > cloth, or seams of under-tunics/shifts/shirts/chemises would have been > > finished? I figure that as they would have been the most often washed > > garment, something would have been done to help prevent the edges of the > > cloth from unraveling...but I haven't been able to figure out what, > during > > that period of time. > > > > (Me, I either zigzag or whip-stitch the edges usually...but I'm wondering > > what would have been done *then*) > > > > Thanks! > > -Elisabeth/Liz > > _______________________________________________ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This communication with its contents may contain > > confidential and/or legally privileged information. It is solely for the > > use of the intended recipient(s). Unauthorized interception, review, use > or > > disclosure is prohibited and may violate applicable laws including the > > Electronic Communications Privacy Act. If you are not the intended > > recipient, please contact the sender and destroy all copies of the > > communication. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > > > > -- > -Sg- > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > -- *Maitresse Aspasia * _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
