On 2/27/15 1:13 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me
if this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be
changed to make it HA?
Butterick is getting better with their Regency patterns. That said, here
is what I would change:
1) The skirt. The a-line cut of the skirt just doesn't make the dress
hang right and the layout is usually a less efficient use of the fabric.
I'm working with a friend on a more standard period cut that you can use
without even having a pattern. It's still in draft and will eventually
get some shots of the layout, but you are welcome to check it out:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/greenberg-skirt.pdf
This method gives you a nice (dancing!) width at the hem, no huge
unflattering gathers bunched up in the front, and hangs just like
authentic gowns because it's the way so many were actually cut then!
2) The neckline. Unless you have a very small bust, View A is going to
be a problem. There's just not much fabric there. You could make the
piece taller and lose the nice low-cut but that will make other fitting
issues. Given the way it is cut so low in back as well, it's almost
guaranteed to fall off your shoulders. Even the model is already having
that happen! View A is better, though, as is, it is not flattering on
many bodies (can look a bit saggy). Try this with View A: cut the back a
bit higher, the front a bit lower, and before you sew it to the skirt
experiment with how you spread out the gathers. You may want to push
them apart in the middle and in from the sides.
3) A bit of customizing based on cup size: the side view of the model
wearing View A shows the challenges with getting a good fit: she is
leaning back and has her shoulders pulled back a bit so the front isn't
saggy, but this makes the back kind of baggy. Here's a trick: if you are
about an A-B-C cup you can cut the back a little shorter (a screenshot
showing where the line can be is attached). If you are D and above, you
may find you need to make the front of the bodice a tiny bit longer at
the waist. The size/weight of the girls will counterbalance the back,
bringing it up a bit so the fit is better. As always, the best advice is
to get some cheap cotton/muslin/scraps and cut and sew the bodice out
of that before cutting your good fabric (and the sleeves too if you have
time - adding sleeves always changes the fit a bit).
And the thing that will really make your gown come alive is a petticoat.
It can be a simple one with straps - just cut it out the same as the
skirt, pop on a simple waistband and a couple of straps and you've got it.
Of course, a corset is always lovely but not something you necessarily
want to tackle first thing. So, find a good supportive bra and hike the
straps up a bit!
- Hope
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