Arthur Schwartz's Casserole of Salt Cod and Potatoes
Arthur Schwartz's Baccala Arrecanato
SERVES 4 TO 6
Benevento is often the exception to
the rule in Campania. It was ruled by
the Germanic Lombards long after any
other part of Southern Italy was. It
was never part of the Kingdom of Naples
or the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.
It was still a Papal State at the time
of Italian unification in 1860. And,
more to the culinary point, the Beneventani
are more likely to combine garlic and onion
in one dish when most Campanians would make
a face of disgust at the mention of such a
thing. Except for that touch, this could as
easily be Neapolitan, or from Salerno.
Mussillo is the center-cut of the cod, a thick
and solid cut - you might say the tenderloin.
North American cod bought in the approximately
one-pound box usually provides such a piece;
the thinner or scraggly pieces are generally
trimmed off and sold as flaked cod. You will
probably have to buy two boxes to get enough
for this recipe. Use the rest to make another
recipe with cod.
1 medium-large onion, thinly sliced
1 large clove garlic, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound mussillo of salt cod, weighed after it
has soaked for 36 hours, and cut into
1/2-inch thick slices
3/4 pound all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut
into 1/4-inch thick slices
2 canned peeled plum tomatoes, with their interior juices
12 Gaeta olives, pitted and halved
2 TBS salted capers, thoroughly rinsed
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 cup water
1 TBS extra-virgin olive oil
In a deep 10-inch skillet, a saut� pan, or
a shallow stove-top casserole, which should
have a cover and, optimally, should be
presentable enough to take to the table, saut�
the onion and the garlic in the olive oil until
the onion is golden, about 8 minutes.
Remove and reserve about half the onion and
garlic mixture.
Arrange a layer of salt cod over the onions
remaining in the pan, then make a layer of
sliced potato.
Spread around the reserved onion mixture.
Cut or crush the tomatoes directly into the pan
and spread them around.
Spread around the olives, the capers, and the
oregano.
Pour the water over all, then drizzle with the
additional tablespoon of olive oil.
Cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
Keep the heat adjusted so the dish simmers briskly
for about 30 minutes.
In the end, the potatoes should be tender and
a flavorful broth will have developed.
Let stand, covered, for 10 minutes, during which
time the potatoes will become softer, absorbing
some of the juices; the juices left in the pan,
although reduced in volume, will become a rosy
colored sauce.
For maximum visual effect, bring the pan to the
table undisturbed and serve, hot or warm, directly
from the pan.
(The longer the dish sits and cools, the fewer, but
more viscous the juices, which is actually the way
some people prefer it.)
--
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