well, if you mess with the tips, that is where all the weight / strength comes from. the tips of the triangles.
I'd suggest you find a spot at least a foot and a half away fro the tips. suggest on the SSW side of the structure alignment, ( that is the primary wind direction. You should orient the door at a 90 degree angle to SSW. that way the wind is blowing across the opening, not into it. Cut for the square part. you could even get a short (2 foot) long piece of the piping that fits and make a little chimney in reality i doubt any significant dust will come "down" the cimney. perhaps you could have a damper. or you could have a filter that you tape in place when you leave. unfortunately any furnace filter will also block this low speed kind of air flow. a better idea is to get a solar fan. Use an old computer fan and a 5 watt solar panel from Harbor Frieght. with that you have forced air out, and you dont need to worry so much about the convection air flow... etc On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 4:57 PM, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote: > So I was scrounging at Home Depot today, looking for ventilation ideas, and > found this: > > > > > My thinking is to carve a circular opening in the hexayurt roof, and fit a > filter over the top. (Paint it black to encourage convection upwards.) In > theory, wind across the top should also draft air out. > > Now, the question is how best to mount it, and here is where I hope > somebody will stop me from doing something stupid, if necessary. My thought > is to cut off the tips of the roof triangles to form a hexagonal hole. Fill > that hole with a piece of plywood and glue a second, slightly larger > hexagonal piece of plywood to overlap the hole on top. The circular hole for > the bottom of this piece goes into the plywood. > > So am I ruining the structural integrity of my yurt this way? There won't > be tape running across the top. I was thinking about anchoring guy-ropes on > the plywood and bringing those down the roof (after taping all joints, of > course). Does the tape have to do both panel-connecting and anchoring, or > can those functions be separated? > > BTW, this is for the standard 8' yurt made from 1 1/2" Rmax, if that makes > any difference. > > Thoughts? PS Any idea what a good material would be for the filter? The > opening is 12"x16", and furnace filters don't seem to come that small. > > Cheers, > Steve > -- > For men become civilized, not in proportion to their willingness to > believe, but in proportion to their readiness to doubt. > -- H.L. Mencken > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]<hexayurt%[email protected]> > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
