>> I haven't been following this thread, so if I'm duplicating efforts here, sorry. I could be wrong, and Kendall or someone else may correct me, but I think Walter Lawson would put some really heavy oil (10W-30?) on the valves to check if they were leaking. If it played better, you most likely needed the valves worked on <<
That's exactly what Walter would do, except it was, if memory serves, 90W oil. If the horn improves with 90W oil in the valve casings then a valve job is indicated. Flush the 90W with light oil, such as valve oil. I haven't followed everything on this thread, either. Has this horn always played this way, or has this problem manifested itself over time? If it's always been this way, then the leadpipe route might well be the way to go. If it's gotten worse, that indicates a wear issue, probably. The good news about a new leadpipe is that the old pipe can always be reinstalled. New pipes can often (not always) be tried without installation, but I have found that once installed they don't play exactly as when they were tried, uninstalled. No matter what you do, save the original pipe. The good news about a valve rebuild is that it will likely enhance the horn's playability no matter how well the horn plays, and will increase its life and preserve value. If this horn is so completely killer in the low register, any money you put into it will likely be well spent, as long as it's done by a competent tech. -- *Regards, Dave Weiner Brass Arts Unlimited* _______________________________________________ post: [email protected] unsubscribe or set options at https://pegasus.memphis.edu/cgi-bin/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
