Steve Mumford wrote:
The only drawback I can think of oiling the rotor
faces is that anything more than a drop or two will
wander elsewhere in the horn, melt your tuning slide
grease and transport it back into your valves,
which will eventually make for slow music...
I think your valves will work consistently faster if
you play every day and you don't oil the rotor faces.
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Oil in the horn is a changing, dynamic state. I agree
with Steve, that the mixing of oils will cause
sluggish valves. However, if you keep the oils
separated, then pure valve oil on the rotors will
produce the quickest valve action.
I agree with Steve, that you need to oil the rotor
surfaces sparingly. The trick is to learn to keep the
slide grease from migrating into the rotors-- this is
done by frequently wiping the valve slides with a
clean cloth; reinserting the valve slides to contact
and draw out more slide grease, then wipe again-- each
time you insert, withdraw, and clean with a dry cloth,
you can draw out up to 50% of the remaining slide
grease in the slide receivers (we're removing the old,
diluted slide grease). The simple concept here is the
removal of as much of the diluted slide grease from
the horn before you apply new, thick slide grease.
Then, with a sigh, resign yourself to your fate with
your horn that the oils will want to mix-- due to
something like the law of horn oil entropy. The more
often you remove and replace your diluted slide
grease, the better you will keep the slide grease out
of the rotors.
My valves are faster than I am; either I have great
valves, or I am a slow player. It's all relative,
anyway.
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