Ah, at last, another go-around on this topic! There is
so much for each of us to write. I feel sorry for
those starting up with this topic and getting so much
different and sometimes conflicting advice. I think
it helps to understand a few principles.
1. Brass rotor surfaces should be oiled to prevent
deterioration; oiling rotor surfaces can help
performance by improving valve action.
2. There is an optimal thickness (viscosity) for every
moving surface on the horn-- basically, the tighter
the clearance, the thinner the oil needs to be.
Finding the right viscosity it most important for
valve bearings and rotor surfaces. If your valves are
noisy, try a thicker oil on the bearings to take up
the slack and to reduce vertical movement.
3. Oil often and sparingly; keep the slide grease and
the rotor oil (in the horn) separated (small
quantities; wipe and reapply slide grease
frequently)-- this is a constant battle, but you can
keep the oil and grease separated with diligent
housekeeping.
And this is a new wrinkle for the experts to explain--
some oils (kerosene, Selmer grease) maintain good
separation from water, while some other lubricants
create a messy cream-colored emulsion with water. The
oil-water emulsions make a mess in the horn and can
create a serious performance problem-- one time my 8D
would not allow anyone to play a high F#. I cleaned
the horn by forcing water through it, with a
significant amount of the white emulsion mess coming
out of the bell. Then the horn played fine. Has
anyone studied this emulsion problem of some
lubricants?
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