I sharpen only at the end (the final equirectangular). I do three passes, first a large radius sharpen (local contrast enhancement), then a heavy sharpen, finally a sharpen (in Picture Windows Pro, not sure of the Photoshop equivalent), all fairly conservative amounts (roughly 20%, 10%, 8% respectively). You may have to duplicate and wrap around the equirect to avoid artifacts at the seams at +/-180 degrees. I don't usually see any problems at the poles, but if you're worried about that you can always do a graduated mask which masks off the top and bottom of the equirect when sharpening.
Ideally, you want to do sharpening on a locally "flat" region to avoid the problems of sharpening the highly distorted areas near the poles, e.g. anisotropy in the horizontal and vertical directions. This could be done by mapping the current region of the pano you are sharpening to a rectilinear patch, sharpening that, and then remapping back to the original spot. Possibly you could cook up a routine in Photoshop to do this, or with panotools. But in my experience I don't seem to run into too many problems sharpening the equirect directly. Cheers, Daniel. On Tuesday, September 11, 2012 7:54:32 AM UTC+1, TvE wrote: > > This probably an FAQ, but I couldn't find an answer: when do you sharpen > spherical panoramas? Before compositing (i.e. sharpen the original images) > or afterwards, and if so, using what type of projection (I need to output > equirectangular in the end)? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Hugin and other free panoramic software" group. A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hugin-ptx
