Bruno (I'm pretty sure it was Bruno) pointed this technique out to me last year and I use it all the time now.
I wasn't aware of the '-l 29' tip though. Can you explain this Bruno? (or someone?) I have read that it specifies the pyramid blending levels, but I don't know what that means (or what pyramid blending is, what the default number of levels is (beyond, "as many as possible,") or what the implication of using more or fewer leves is :-! ) I assume it helps the blending in some way (reduced smearing perhaps? or to limit the time spent trying to blend what is essentially an un-blendable area?) Is the parameter used only for the last blend (blending the patches to the rest of the already blended panorama) or is it used to blend the whole panorama at once? In any case. I have used this technique a lot in partial panoramas (what I mostly shoot.) And I do it without using that parameter (I'll have to experiment.) I usually use it to patch regular areas or surfaces like sky or a wall, but it also works pretty well with more textured surfaces like grass or water (like a lake or ocean surface.) I've even used it for brick walls. It's also handy for moving things slightly to get a nicer composition. For example, in this image<http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnpwatkins/6391887097/in/set-72157628118365061/lightbox/> I was able to move the top edge up a bit by patching in sky in the upper L corner and near the upper R corner. To do that, I also moved the edge of the cabin awning (in the UR corner) up several inches and patched the sky below it. If I hadn't done this, cropping to eliminate the missing areas of the image would have made it awkward looking, detracting from an otherwise pretty nice image. (BTW, this isn't the final image (still has some mask and blend problems I've since fixed, but I have been to lazy to update it!) On Tuesday, January 4, 2011 4:51:50 PM UTC-6, Bruno Postle wrote: > > On Tue 04-Jan-2011 at 13:17 -0800, panhobby wrote: > > > >I'm now shooting almost only handheld panoramic pictures. One side > >effect is the lack of precision while shooting pictures. Then, it > >appears sometime that my pictures are not fully covering the area of > >the final image. There some parts at the top or the bottom of the > >image that are fully black and without information. > > > >1) Fill black areas with other parts of the image > > Yes, this is how I patch missing areas of sky and ground, you can do > it all in Hugin. > > So for a hole in the sky I would select a photo that is already in > the project with a lot of sky and add this again to the project > (you can have the same photo in one project multiple times), but use > the Crop or Mask tab to remove everything but the sky from this > image. > > Drag it around in the Preview until it covers the hole, but before > you stitch set the enblend parameters to '-l 29'. > > This panorama has the sun (actually my hand shading the sun) and my > shadow removed using this technique, there has been no > post-processing or retouching: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/36383814@N00/5321872706/ > > ..this ought to be a tutorial :-( > > -- > Bruno > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Hugin and other free panoramic software" group. A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ To post to this group, send email to hugin-ptx@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to hugin-ptx+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hugin-ptx
