"4. Last and least: How would you do it? What is your advice to me?"

I got a pretty good result by doing the following:

Load the images into Hugin, and set an approximate HFOV (I used 45 degrees) 
and a projection of equirectangular

Create some control points - I used "Create control points" on the Images 
tab, then added a couple more for good measure.

Then I optimised with custom parameters: I ticked y, p, r, X, Y, Z, v for 
image 1. Definitely don't tick b; Hugin went crazy when I did that!

Then I used the GL viewer, set the projection to equirectangular (you'll 
see more with this) or rectilinear (you'll get straighter lines, but either 
a lot of cropping or a lot of black), and dragged the images around until 
they were straight and more or less face on (if you click and drag on 
different points on the view, you get slightly different effects, so you 
can rotate as well as translate by click-dragging, it's quite nice)

Once that's done, you're ready to stitch. I didn't bother optimising 
exposure since the cameras seem pretty well matched, and blending will take 
care of some of that.


Now that's done, all the parameters should be saved in the .pto file. Now 
you can replace the input images with new images (same filenames), go 
straight to Stitch (or run it via the command line) and you'll have your 
new output.


Lastly, I'd recommend my <a 
href="http://horman.net/multiblend/";>multiblend</a> as an alternative to 
enblend, as it does a nicer job with narrow overlaps, is much faster, and 
doesn't suffer from vignetting in corners.

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