Hi,

thanks a lot for your input!
My bracket setting was 0.3EV so no wonder I was missing output layers. I had 
to search a bit, because the german translation is a bit fuzzy. In german it 
is named "Belichtungsebenen" which I would translate as exposure layer, so it 
is not so clear that this is for the output layers.
>From what I read in the articles you linked, I'm shooting way too many 
pictures. I'll give it a try with less.
At the moment I shoot jpgs but I could do raw. Is there much benefit? I see 
different white balance in the original images but hugin seems to handle that 
just fine.

I also tried multiblend. It seems to have a bit more trouble if the 
controlpoints are not perfect but it is indeed faster. That doesn't help with 
nona and enfuse which took a lot of time with my big stacks but if I don't 
need that, then it will speed up the process a lot.

I also found some articles about lens calibration. How do I know if I should 
do that?

If anyone knows articles/tutorials about 360°  and/or indoor panos please 
share. I find it really hard to find something that covers more than the basics 
and is not outdated (or at least old and thus unclear to me if still valid).

Am Sonntag, 19. Dezember 2021, 21:53:41 CET schrieb 'dkloi' via hugin and 
other free panoramic software:
> From the Hugin manual at https://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_Stitcher_tab
> 
> "If *Exposure fused from any arrangement* is enabled then hugin will seam
> blend images with similar exposure with enblend
> <https://wiki.panotools.org/Enblend> and than it will exposure fuse
> <https://wiki.panotools.org/index.php?title=Exposure_fusion&action=edit&redl
> ink=1> them using enfuse <https://wiki.panotools.org/Enfuse>. This variant
> is often much more successful than *Exposure fused from stacks* in two
> situations:
> 
>    - Where entire panoramas have been shot at each EV level consecutively
>    rather than each shot bracketed <https://wiki.panotools.org/Bracketing>,
>    in this case it isn't guaranteed that shots will line up into the
>    approximate stacks expected by the *Exposure fused from stacks* option.
> 
> 
>    - When the panorama has been shot entirely on automatic exposure, in
>    this situation it is useful to seam blend adjacent photos with small EV
>    differences, but then exposure fuse larger EV differences - As
> effectively happens with this option.
> 
> Note that Hugin uses a default threshold of 0.5 EV exposure difference to
> determine which photos can be fused into each layer. This threshold can be
> modified on the Photos tab <https://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_Photos_tab> in
> the Expert mode (selecting group by Output layers)."
> 
> What exposure bracket settings are you using? If it's 0.5EV steps, then
> maybe Hugin is combining 2 exposure planes?
> 
> Are you able to share your project and a set of images for diagnosis?
> Downsized, compressed would be fine for testing exposure fusion.
> 
> There are other ways of handling high contrast panos. I have some articles
> that may be useful
> at http://www.dkloi.co.uk/?p=1454 http://www.dkloi.co.uk/?p=1501
> and http://www.dkloi.co.uk/?p=1518
> 
> On Saturday, 18 December 2021 at 08:15:03 UTC chaosjug wrote:
> > Hi,
> > 
> > I'm looking for the best way to do make 360° indoor panoramas. I'm using a
> > panorama head and the images align well. No issues there.
> > What I'm wondering is this:
> > I'm shooting stack with different exposure. Is that the right thing? I
> > need
> > different exposure when shooting against a window versus a dark part of
> > the
> > room.
> > How should I build the final image from that? I tried the "fused" and
> > "blended_fused" but it is not totally clear to me what is actually the
> > difference. Is it the order if stacking or building the panorama is done
> > first?
> > Or is there anything else to it? Which is better?
> > 
> > When using "blended_fused" I get three intermediate panoramas with
> > different
> > exposure although there are 7 images in each stack. It is unclear to me
> > why
> > that happens. I get the following warnings:
> > enblend: warning: some images are redundant and will not be blended
> > enblend: note: usually this means that at least one of the images
> > enblend: note: does not belong to the set
> > 
> > As I don't have a wide angle lens, I need a lot of images and thus it
> > takes a
> > lot of time to merge. Are there any tricks to speed things up?
> > 
> > Regards,
> > Stephan




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