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Article Title: How Do We Free Climb The European Big Walls?
Author: Eva Eskilsson
Category: Outdoors, Sports, Recreation and Leisure
Word Count: 451
Keywords: big wall climbing, grandes voies, multi-pitch climbing, Alps, Europe, 
rock climbing
Author's Email Address: [email protected]
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
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The highest concentration of multi-pitch routes and so called Big Walls or 
Grandes Voies in Europe you find in France, Italy, Switzerland and Spain. Many 
are put up on legendary walls in variable and incredibly beautiful places. You 
find a mix of modern routes (recently and well equipped), routes on traditional 
gear, historical walls, and mountain routes. 

A big wall can be anything between 5 and 25 pitches. Being longer than 500m of 
sustained difficulties, it is already considered to be a very big wall. The 
route descriptions can be found in several different guidebooks, some a lot 
better than others. Always compare several to find the best description of long 
and demanding routes.

A guidebook also gives you the difficulty of a route by writing either the 
maximum grade (type 5+, 6a, 6b.. of the hardest pitch on the route), the 
obligatory grade (the hardest passage between two possible points of 
protection), or the overall grade (type D, TD, ED.. Indicating the seriousness 
of the mission).

The times given in guidebooks often correspond to a team of two persons capable 
of free climbing the route on sight. We climb big walls in teams of 2 or 3 
persons, most commonly using two half-ropes. This is convenient for rappelling 
and for avoiding rope drag, since the pitches are often 40m long and the points 
of protection are seldom in a straight line. On hard, steep and straightforward 
routes we often haul a small backpack. Then we climb with one single rope and a 
thinner trail line for the backpack and the rappelling. 

The gear (quick-draws, friends/camalots, nuts, pitons..) is sometimes described 
in the guidebook, but it is recommended to confirm such things with other 
people who have already climbed the route. The equipment in place (bolts, 
pitons, slings) varies a lot and it is essential to know how to connect points 
and build proper belays before climbing big walls. Always bring two locking 
carabiners and a 120cm sling to build belays.

Additionally, the general personal material to bring is: harness, friction 
shoes, helmet, chalk bag, two prussic slings, a belay device of type reverso 
with two locking carabiners, pocket knife and a first aid kit. If you are 
planning/risking to bivouac also bring a head torch and a bivi-bag. Adapt your 
clothing to the climate and bring something to drink and eat.

Most places in the Alps and other mountain ranges in Europe are covered by the 
cell phone networks, so bring your phone and remember to register the number 
for the local rescue. Do not hesitate to take a day or two together with a 
professional mountain guide to learn the necessary skills before going to more 
adventurous places than the sport climbing crags.

Eva Eskilsson writes for a small guiding company based in Chamonix Mont Blanc 
(http://www.mountain-spirit-guides.com). They offer guided rock climbing and 
mountaineering in the Alps and tailor made climbing and mountaineering courses 
in Europe.
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